J6: Connections Labeled FL FF RL RF.
Labeled FL:
Weapons neutralizers : 2x 3mm blue LEDs. One LED goes to Robby's LEFT hand
Front of head and one goes to RIGHT hand rear of head.
Labeled FF:
Weapons neutralizers : 2x 3mm blue LEDs. One LED goes to Robby's RIGHT hand
Front of head and one goes to LEFT hand REAR of head.
Labeled RL:
Analyzer Beta : 2x 3mm warm-white LEDS. These 2 LEDs are placed horizontal
on Robby's Beta dial. Slow flash speed LEDs.
Labeled RF:
Analyzer Beta : 2x 3mm warm-white LEDS. These 2 LEDs are placed vertical on
Robby's beta dial. Fast flash speed LEDs.
Labeled S:
One of the 2 red jst 2pin connections, soldered to the light board, is for the
Center Gyro. The connection has a single pre-wired white 3mm LED.
You may also add your own extra lighting such as blinky or steady lights for the coils in Robby's
head for the Poster Version.
Voice LEDs and glow-rod are pre-soldered to sound-board.
S
ection 2:
cutting and
Drilling.
For those of you who are unfamiliar with your 24” Masudaya Robby, to remove the head,
simply rotate the head 90deg in either direction and pull the head off. You should have a manual
with yours with instructions.
Do all required drilling and cutting prior to painting your robot. This will require you to do a dry
fitting of your lighting kit to test fit your lights, do not glue them during this time.
You need to follow the diagram and descriptions to place LEDs in their proper location for the
effect to be accurate. The LEDs speeds are different.
Be careful when drilling and cutting as the veneer or vinyl is soft.
Center Gyro:
Use a tiny drill bit and drill a hole in the center
of the gyro base dimple. Enlarge it with a 7/64”
drill bit and go all the way through the base. Test
with the 3mm gyro to see if it will fit snug. If it is
too small, use the drill bit to egg the hole a little
bigger. A 1/8” drill bit is too big and the LED will
would fit loose.
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