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25. STITCH VARIATIONS AND
SEWING TECHNIQUES

How to Sew a Flatlock Decorative Seam

(1) Machine Set Up

A flatlock stitch is achieved by adjusting the tension
of the 3-thread overlock stitch, sewing the seam and
pulling the fabric apart to flatten the seam.

The flatlock stitch can be used as a construction
and decorative stitch or for ornamentation only.

Remove the left or right needle.

Begin with the machine threaded and tension
balanced for the 3-thread overlock stitch
(page 29).

Loosen the needle thread tension (green or bule)
generously.

Loosen the upper looper thread tension (orange)
slightly.

Tighten the lower looper thread tension (yellow)
generously.

(2) Flatlocking a Seam

Place the fabric wrong sides together to sew a
decorative stitch on the right side of the garment.

Sew the seam, trimming the excess fabric.

The needle thread (green or blue) will form a V
on the underside of the fabric.

The lower looper thread will pull into a straight
line at the fabric edge.

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Summary of Contents for HD0405S

Page 1: ...HD0405S 2 3 4 THREAD HEAVY DUTY OVERLOCK MACHINE Instruction Manual ...

Page 2: ......

Page 3: ...rance design or accessories of this overlock machine when considered necessary without notification or obligation For European Territories This SINGER Overlock Machine was tested according to European norms and meets the requirements regarding electrical safety radio interference and electromagnetic immunity The conformity is documented with the mark If the supply cord is damaged it must be replac...

Page 4: ... the electrical outlet when removing covers lubricating or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the Instruction Manual Do not attempt to adjust the motor belt Contact your nearest Service Center should any adjustment be required Do not unplug by pulling on cord To unplug grasp the plug not the cord Handle the foot controller with care and avoid dropping it on the floor Be ...

Page 5: ...not allow to be used as a toy Close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children Do not expose the machine or machine plastic case to sunlight directly Also do not keep it in a very warm or damp place Do not touch the machine foot controller and power line cord with wet hand wet cloth or with anything wet Do not connect power line cord to one of the many cords connected to o...

Page 6: ...eredge and Rolled Hem Stitching To sew standard overedge To sew rolled hem 21 Chaining Off and Test Sewing 23 Suggested Tension Setting 1 2 thread wrapped edge overlock 2 2 thread standard rolled hem stitching 3 3 Thread Overlock 4 3 Thread Flatlock 5 3 Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock 6 4 Thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety Stitch 24 How to Sew a Rolled Hem 1 a 2 thread wrapped edge overlock b 2 thread ...

Page 7: ...th can be obtained by changing the needle position narrow rolled hems or ornamental edges 1 needle 3 thread stitch is used for sewing Also a 3 5mm and 5 7mm wrapped rolled hem seam width can be obtained by changing the needle position 1 needle 2 thread stitch is used for hemming on edge finishing operations Also a 3 5mm and 5 7mm standard overlock seam width can be obtained by changing the needle ...

Page 8: ...average settings on medium weight fabric with standard 80 polyester spun thread 1 2 3 4 5 6 3 5mm 502 Two Thread Standard Rolled Hem Stitching 503 Three Thread Overlock 504 Three Thread Flatlock 505 514 Three Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock Four Thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety Stitch 3 5mm 3 5mm 3 5mm 3 5mm 5 7mm 5 7mm 5 7mm 5 7mm 5 7mm Blue Green Orange Yellow Spreader Spreader Spreader Spreader Up...

Page 9: ...sted tension setting is readjusted skipping of the stitches may occur Sizes available Singer needle 2022 80 11 90 14 100 16 1 Needle set 2 Screw driver small size 3 Tweezers 4 Spreader HD0405S 1 1 1 1 5 Lint brush with hole for mounting needle 6 spare lower knife 7 Scrap bag in the carton 1 1 1 SINGER needles 2022 size 100 16 are intended to be used with heavy weight fabrics It is recommended to c...

Page 10: ...en 5 Upper looper thread tension dial orange 6 Lower looper thread tension dial yellow 7 Throat plate 8 Cloth plate 9 Looper cover 10 Power light switch 11 Stitch length dial 12 Hand wheel 13 Spool stand 14 Spool holder 15 Spool pin 16 Presser bar lifter 17 Differential feed adjusting lever knob 18 Seam width finger support plate 8 ...

Page 11: ...peed press the controller The harder you press the faster the machine will sew WARNING Use only foot controller provided with this machine YC 482 for U S A CANADA only Be sure to make reference to Warning on following page 6 HOW TO OPEN LOOPER COVER 8 PREPARATION PRIOR TO SEWING 7 PRINCIPAL PARTS BEHIND LOOPER COVER Caution Be sure to turn off power switch Caution Be sure looper cover is closed wh...

Page 12: ...e foot controller with care and avoid dropping it on the floor Be sure not to place anything on top of it when not in use Disconnect the power line plug from the electric outlet when changing needles presser feet or throat plates or when leaving the machine unattended This eliminates the possibility of starting the machine by accidentally pressing the controller This machine is shipped with the th...

Page 13: ...the needle into the needle clamp as far as it will go with help of lint brush Securely tighten the needle set screw Turn the hand wheel toward you until the needle is at its highest position Loosen but do not remove the needle set screw with the small screwdriver 1 Left needle set screw 2 Right needle set screw 3 Left needle 4 Right needle Remove the needle s Note This machine uses 2022 needles Re...

Page 14: ...ead Green 4 Left needle thread Blue Caution Be sure to turn off power switch Thread the upper looper as indicated 1 8 Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1 1 Threading the Upper Looper Orange 11 THREADING THE MACHINE Threading Diagram Understanding the Color Code To Thread the Machine Correctly 12 Presser Foot needs to be up before theading You MUST rethread all 4 threads i...

Page 15: ...rly located in between the tension discs 3 downward until it slips Thread the looper area of the machine following the orange color coded thread guides 4 7 Thread the hole in the upper looper from front to back 8 Note Use of tweezers provided in the accessory set to aid in threading the looper Pull about 10cm 4 inches of thread through the looper and place to the back of the throat plate 13 ...

Page 16: ...to the front through the thread guide 1 Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread thread guide 2 downward until it slips under While holding thread with finger pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3 14 ...

Page 17: ...d to the left of threading guide 8 Pull the thread up and into thread guide 8 Pass the thread behind and over the top end of left looper 9 A Then pull it downward gently so that it will slip into the slot in the looper 9 B Pick up the thread and pass it through the hole in the end of the looper 10 Note accessory set to aid in threading the looper The thread should be positioned in the groove of th...

Page 18: ...o the front through the thread guide 1 While holding thread with finger pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make tension discs 3 thread downward until it slips under thread guide 2 thread guide by pulling the Thread the top cover certain it is properly located in between the 16 ...

Page 19: ...per thread path of the thread guide 6 Thread the eye of the right needle 8 Note Use of tweezers in the accessory set will make needle eye threading easy Draw about 10cm 4 inches of thread through needle eye to hang free Place the thread to the back under the presser foot 17 ...

Page 20: ... the front through the thread guide 1 Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread under thread guide 2 While holding thread with finger pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make tension discs 3 downward until it slips certain it is properly located in between the 18 ...

Page 21: ...the accessory set will make needle eye threading easy Draw about 10cm 4 inches of thread through needle eye to hang free Place the thread to the back under the presser foot misthreading the lower looper If the lower looper should come unthreaded 1 Unthread the needle s 2 Thread the lower looper 3 Thread the needle s Always thread the needle s last to prevent Important Threading Information 19 ...

Page 22: ...tied Firmly pull both thread to test knot security Note tension dial settings Turn the tension dials down until the dial stops Pull the threads through the machine one at a time If threads do not pull easily check for tangles on thread guides or looping under thread stand the knot is in front of the needle Cut the thread and insert it through the needle Return tension dials to previous settings Wh...

Page 23: ...h can be achieved by repositioning the needle position and also with the width adjustment knob Overedge seam width can be adjusted by changing the needle position a When only left needle is used 5 7 mm 7 32 inch b When only right needle is used 3 5 mm 9 64 inch Use of width adjustment knob will permit further adjustment within the width range shown below a when only left needle is used 5 2 6 7 mm ...

Page 24: ... weight fabrics Most of the materials do not require adjustment of presser foot pressure however there are some instances where adjustment is necessary when sewing lightweight and heavyweight fabrics A in top cover and into slot B in pressure required Note Turn regulating screw counterclockwise until it stops against the top cover Then turn screw clockwise 6 turns which will be the standard presse...

Page 25: ...d back bodices skirt hems assembling into garment Set differential feed adjusting lever knob below graduation 1 0 Setting of adjusting lever knob depends on material being sewn as well as the and test sew before sewing your garment When feed regulating dial is set at 3 or over the amount of feed of the main feed dog will change to 3 automatically when adjusting lever knob is set to 2 0 feed adjust...

Page 26: ...e seam lightly in front and back of the presser foot Note If amount of stretch is not correctly set in relation to the fabric being sewn the fabric seam In such case reset differential feed adjusting lever closer to the center mark normal overedge stitching To set the differential feed adjusting lever is apt to shift away from the needle resulting in improperly sewn overedge Be sure to reset the d...

Page 27: ...ks into a horizontal position Note If the knife stops in the up position To place movable knife in nonworking position To place movable knife in working position Turn the hand wheel toward you until the knife clears the top of the machine Continue to rotate the knife to the hoeizontal position Open looper cover and push the movable knife holder to the right as it will go Turn the knob up and towar...

Page 28: ...oving the spreader Insert the pin A of the spreader in the hole B of the upper looper Put the positioning rib C in contact with the upper surface of the looper Insert the point D in the hole E of the upper looper Remove the point D of the hole E of the upper looper and take the spreader off the looper Note Put the spreader back to the accessory storage 26 ...

Page 29: ...e left and remove from machine while pressing button A located on the underside This is especially suited for sewing hard to reach garment areas such as armholes and overcasting trouser cuffs Place garment over the free arm and sew Align projection on cloth plate with groove in cylinder cover and slide to the right until tab on cloth plate front snaps into slot in cylinder cover 27 ...

Page 30: ...th finger knob to S to move seam width finger to projected position Set seam width finger knob to R to retract the seam width finger Note Be sure to push seam width finger knob as far as it will go in the direction of setting R Note Be sure to push seam width finger knob as far as it will go in the direction of setting S 28 ...

Page 31: ... wheel toward you 2 or 3 complete turns to start the thread chain Lower presser foot Continue holding the chain and press on the foot controller until the chain is 5 7 5cm 2 3 inches in length 21 CHAINING OFF AND TEST SEWING Place fabric under the front of the presser foot and sew a test sample Note Do not pull on the fabric while sewing as this may deflect the needle causing it to break 29 ...

Page 32: ...of the fabric until the thread chain forms Cut the thread leaving at least 3 7 5 cm at the end of the fabric Note For heavy or thick fabrics it is recommended to use SINGER needles 2022 size 100 16 Heavy or thick fabrics may be more difficult to feed than others In these cases start by cutting a notch at the beginning of the seam about 1 2 5 cm down from the top of the fabric and along the seam li...

Page 33: ...on Dial Blue Green Orange Yellow Fabric SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB STITCH LENGTH SPREADER Light weigt Medium weight Heavy weight 2 5 3 5 4 0 Spreader Spreader Spreader 1 0 1 0 1 0 Tension Dial Blue Green Orange Yellow Fabric Light weigt Medium weight Heavy weight 2 5 4 0 5 0 Spreader Spreader Spreader 2 0 2 0 2 0 1 2 Thread wrapped edge overlock Correct Balance When the lower looper thread tension is ...

Page 34: ...bric SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB STITCH LENGTH SPREADER Light weigt Medium weight Heavy weight 0 0 5 1 0 Spreader Spreader Spreader 5 0 5 0 5 0 Tension Dial Blue Green Orange Yellow Fabric Light weigt Medium weight Heavy weight 0 0 5 1 0 Spreader Spreader Spreader 5 0 6 0 6 5 2 2 Thread standard rolled hem stitching Correct Balance When the lower looper thread is botton side of the fabric Tum the lower...

Page 35: ...GER KNOB STITCH LENGTH S 2 4 Upper looper thread Upper looper thread Upper looper thread Upper looper thread Needle thread Needle thread Topside Topside Lower looper thread Lower looper thread Underside Underside Needle thread Topside Lower looper thread Underside Needle thread Topside Lower looper thread Underside 504 Fabric Tension Dial Blue 2 5 3 0 3 5 Green Orange 3 0 3 0 3 0 Yellow 3 0 3 0 3 ...

Page 36: ... lower number How to Balance NEEDLE POSITION SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB STITCH LENGTH S 2 4 Fabric Tension Dial Blau 0 5 0 5 0 5 Green Orange 5 0 5 0 5 0 Yellow 7 0 7 0 7 0 Light weight Medium weight Heavy weight Fabric Tension Dial Blau Green 0 5 0 5 0 5 Orange 5 0 5 0 5 0 Yellow 7 0 7 0 7 0 Light weight Medium weight Heavy weight Needle thread Needle thread Upper looper thread Lower looper thread Un...

Page 37: ...o Balance NEEDLE POSITION SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB STITCH LENGTH S 2 4 Fabric Tension Dial Blue 4 0 5 0 5 0 Green Orange 0 0 0 Yellow 8 0 8 5 8 5 Light weight Medium weight Heavy weight Fabric Tension Dial Blue Green 2 5 3 0 3 5 Orange 1 0 1 0 1 0 Yellow 7 0 7 0 7 0 Light weight Medium weight Heavy weight When the needle thread tension is too loose Turn the needle thread tension dial blue or green t...

Page 38: ...ead tension dial green toward a higher number How to Balance NEEDLE POSITION SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB STITCH LENGTH S 2 4 Fabric Tension Dial Blue 2 5 3 0 3 5 Green 2 5 3 0 3 5 Orange 3 0 3 0 3 0 Yellow 3 0 3 0 3 0 Light weight Medium weight Heavy weight 36 Upper looper thread Right needle thread Left needle thread Topside Lower looper thread Underside Topside Upper looper thread Right needle thread...

Page 39: ...ff fabrics 37 24 HOW TO SEW A ROLLED HEM Remove the left needle Move seam width finger knob to setting R See page 28 Align left face of seam width finger support plate with R mark on throat plate by turning seam width finger knob as required Set stitch length dial to F 2 and a fine seam will be sewn Needle Singer Needle 2022 size 80 11 or 90 14 Thread A variety of thread combinations can be used f...

Page 40: ...INGER KNOB STITCH LENGTH SPREADER S F 2 USE Tension Dial Blue Green Green Orange Yellow Needle thread Lower looper thread Lower looper thread Topside Topside Underside Underside 502 503 Polyester Wooly nylon 3 0 3 0 2 0 2 0 Upper looper thread Tension Dial Blue Orange Yellow Wooly nylon 2 0 4 0 Upper looper thread Correct Balance Set each tension dial to settings shown at right and test sew a samp...

Page 41: ...n Dial Blue Green Orange Yellow Polyester Wooly nylon 3 0 3 0 3 0 3 5 5 0 3 5 Upper looper thread Tension Dial Blue Orange Yellow Polyester Wooly nylon 2 0 2 0 7 0 5 0 5 0 2 0 Upper looper thread Correct Balance Set each tension dial to settings shown at right and test sew on a sample of your fabric b 3 thread Upper Looper Thread Wrapped Rolled Hem Stitching Correct Balance 39 504 Needle thread Ne...

Page 42: ...tch width that can be obtained for rolled hemming is approximately 1 5mm 1 16 inch since the cutting width cannot be set below 3 5mm 9 64 inch Additional lnformation About Rolled Hemming Apply a small drop of liquid seam sealant to the end of the seam Allow to dry then cut the chain close to the stitches To Secure the Rolled Hem Thread Chain Note Test the liquid seam sealant for color fastness bef...

Page 43: ... ornamentation only Remove the left or right needle Begin with the machine threaded and tension balanced for the 3 thread overlock stitch page 29 Loosen the needle thread tension green or bule generously Loosen the upper looper thread tension orange slightly Tighten the lower looper thread tension yellow generously 2 Flatlocking a Seam Place the fabric wrong sides together to sew a decorative stit...

Page 44: ...g off the fabric Pull on opposite sides of the stitch to flatten 4 Additional Information About Flatlocking The tensions must be correctly adjusted for the fabric to pull flat The upper looper thread is the prominent thread in the flatlock stitch Place a decorative thread in the upper looper and inconspicuous threads in the lower looper and needle For a ladder stitch sew seam with right sides toge...

Page 45: ...de of the fabric then back to the right side with 6mm 1 4 beyond the fold Stitch on the extended hem edge allowing the machine needle to barely catch the edge of the fold Remove Remove 43 How to Sew an Overlock Blind Hem Sew decorative pin tucks on the fabric before cutting out the garment Remove the left needle and adjust machine for a narrow 3 thread overlock stitch Note The rolled hem stitch ca...

Page 46: ...d presser foot Pull the fabric to the rear of the machine just enough to release the thread caught on the finger of the throat plate Note Presser foot has been removed to show detail Turn the fabric and lower the presser foot so that the knife is positioned in line with the cut edge Pull slack threads up then start to sew Turning Square Corners Cutting line Cutting line Cut Slit 1 Outside Corner C...

Page 47: ...ou sew Insert pins to the left of the presser foot The pins will be easy to remove and are away from the cutting action of the knives Caution Sewing over pins will damage and or destroy the cutting edge of the knives Pin Placement Thread a large eye hand sewing needle such as a tapestry needle with the thread chain Insert the needle into the end of the seam to secure thread Securing the Thread Cha...

Page 48: ...e garment seam The tape is attached as the seam is sewn How to Reinforce a Seam position Insert filler cord such as yarn or twill tape through the hole in the front of the foot Position the filler cord under the foot and chain off the desired length Chained off braids can be used individually or woven into 3 or 4 ply braids Braiding by Chaining Off Place the movable upper knife in nonworking 46 ...

Page 49: ...sons 1 A lot of lint is produced due to the cutting action of the knives 2 An overlock runs at a very high speed and needs to be oiled frequently to lubricate the internal working parts Cleaning the Machine 26 MACHINE MAINTENANCE Danger Before lubricating your machine disconnect power line plug from the wall receptacle The oiling points shown in the diagram should be oiled periodically Note Use se...

Page 50: ...ts Be sure that the power line plug is disconnected from the electric source Open the looper cover and set the movable upper knife 1 in the nonworking position page 25 Loosen the stationary knife set screw 2 and remove the stationary knife 3 Place a new stationary knife in the groove of the stationary knife holder Tighten stationary knife set screw 2 Return the movable upper knife 1 to its working...

Page 51: ...sert new needle current needle may be bent or have a blunt point Use a high quality thread Loosen thread tension Insert new needle current needle may be bent or have a blunt point Tighten needle set screw Insert needle correctly Change type or size of needle Check threading Increase presser foot pressure Use a high quality thread Balance thread tension Check for tangled or caught thread Check thre...

Page 52: ... Broadcloth etc Heavy Weight Knit Tricot Jersey Wool woven knit Cotton 40 60 Silk 40 60 Spun 60 80 Tetron 50 80 Spun 60 80 Tetron 60 80 Cotton 60 80 Spun 60 80 Tetron 50 60 Woolly nylon Woolly tetron Spun 80 90 Tetron 60 80 16 11 Oxford Denim Tweed Corduroy Serge Type of Thread Needle Singer Cat No 2022 50 SINGER needle Cat No 2022 is furnished with the machine However it is recommended that you s...

Page 53: ...rise Needle Model Number of threads Machine dimensions mm Width Depth Height Weight Kg 1 200 150 spm 1 4mm standard rolled hemming F 2 ordinary overedge 3 0 1 0 7 1 2 with differential feed machine Rolled hemming 1 5mm ordinary overedge 3 0 6 7mm standard 3 5mm 27mm 4 5 5 0mm SINGER Cat No 2022 14 SINGER Cat No 2022 16 HD0405S 2 3 4 338 280 265 6 2 51 ...

Page 54: ...52 NOTES ...

Page 55: ......

Page 56: ... English Part No 600505 003 Rev 1 Printed in China www singer com SINGER SHANGHAI SEWING MACHINE CO LTD No 1078 Dayao Road MinHang Shanghai 200245 China ...

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