.
Tie a square knot in the rubber to make a loop. It's best to lubricate it with Sig Rubber Lube. The rubber is installed through the
opening in the cowl and held in back with a 1/16" dowel.
Contest Tips
The Mr. Mulligan has had considerable success in contests, winning first place in the 1972 National Model Airplane
Championships. Academy of Model Aeronautics rules require that you prove that your model is an accurate reproduction. "Proof
of Scale" must include a three-view drawing of the real airplane and photographs. The April, 1972, issue of "Wings" magazine
has excellent photos. A three-view and photos can be found in "The Golden Age of Air Racing", available for $4.00 from the
Experimental Aircraft Association in Hales Corners, Wise. An excellent three.view of Mr. Mulligan is available from. Hal
Osborne, 1932 Conejo Lane, Fullerton, California, for $2.50.
A small three-view of Mr. Mulligan appears in the book "The National Air Racers in 3-Views 1929-1949" by Charles A.
Mendenhall, available from The Diane Publishing Co., Box 2726, Rochester, New York, N. Y. 14626. Photos of Mr. Mulligan,
taken at different times show differences in markings. Some photos show "40" on both sides of the fuselage but not on the wing
tips. Later pictures show "40" also on the upper left and lower right wing tips.
The plastic propeller provided in the kit is for general sport flying purposes. For contest use the special hand made propeller
(parts not furnished) will give extra performance for experienced modelers. (See previous diagram) The propeller hook may be
unfamiliar. It is designed to prevent the rubber from "climbing" the prop shaft and allows the use of rubber motors up to 33
inches long. The model depends on a long motor run for its endurance. Typically it will fly fifty seconds fully wound. The glide
with the contest propeller is poor due to the drag of the wide blades. This has not detracted from the model's winning ways,
however.
Modifications
By adding a small plywood firewall to C2 the Mr. Mulligan will be quite well suited to the Brown Co2 motor. Mr. Muligan can be
adapted to indoor scale by building a lighter structure. Reduce the size of the stringers to 1/32"x1/16". Make the wing spar of
1/32"x1/16". Use only the lightest indoor wood. Use only one coat of clear dope or two coats thinned 50% with thinner. The
contest prop should be used but without free-wheeling and with 1/32" plywood blades. The rubber size should be reduced and
adjusted to the height of the ceiling under which you are flying.
Decals
Dip the decals in water for a few seconds, remove and allow the moisture to soak into the backing to completely loosen the
glue. Don't slide the decal off too soon or it may tear. Slide about 1/4" of decal at the bottom over the edge of the backing and
align on the surface. Hold the decal and carefully slide away the backing from underneath. Use a small paddle of 1/8" sheet
balsa about 3/8" wide as a squeegee to remove excess water from under the decal. Hold down one edge with a similar paddle
while squeegeeing to prevent the decal from being moved. Allow plenty of time for the glue under the decal to dry before wiping
away the excess glue remaining on the surface of the model with a damp cloth.
The decals are fuel proof with most fuels but will dissolve in dope or cement. Do not try to dope over the decals. Some types of
clear fuel proofer may be used over the decals to increase durability but test them in advance before applying.
FLYING YOUR SIG CLASSIC
Now you are ready to fly your plane, and FLYING is what the Sig Classic models are designed for. Most models as realistic
looking as your Classic make poor flyers. They're often tricky to adjust and clumsy in the air. But Sig's Classic kits give you
three important features that assure you of successful flights:
1. A PROVEN flyable design.
2. A reliable way to make flight adjustments.
3. Complete flying instructions.
Read and follow these instructions carefully. They are the key to satisfying flying.
Testing And Adjusting
You have invested a lot of time and effort in building your model, don't waste it all now with careless testing. Most models fail to
fly because of poor adjustment, not poor craftsmanship. Be as careful in your testing as you were in your building.
Every model is a little different and needs its own special set of adjustments. Contest winning flyers make dozens, even
hundreds, of test flights "trimming" a model for best performance. So don't give up if your first flights aren't perfect.