SIG Mr. Mulligan SIGF23 Classic Series Instructions Manual Download Page 3

Wing

 

Build the center section over the plan, holding parts in place with pins until after the wing is completely assembled. The 
center section leading edge is 3/32"x3/16". A piece of 1/16" square is glued between the center section ribs and flush 
with their top surface to provide a place to cement on the three top fuselage stringers (see top view of fuselage on plan) 
after the completed wing is glued to the fuselage. The gussets hold the center section trailing edge in place until the 
outer panels are added.  

Pre-assemble parts W-l, W-2, and W-3 into complete wing tips and remove them from the plan when dry. Cut two spars 
to shape from 3/32"x3/16" balsa strip, using the pattern of the spar on the plan. Pin the spar in place on the wing plan. 
Add the leading and trailing edges. Fit W-5 ribs in place over the spar and against the leading and trailing edges. Trim 
where necessary for perfect fit. Glue in place. Add the pre-assembled wing tips, cracking them at the break point 
indicated on the plans and incorporating the required 5/32" of tip dihedral.  

The spar, and the leading and trailing edges all rest against the center section but are not glued to it.  

When the wing panels are dry, loosen them from the plastic protecting your plans and lift them away from the center 
section, leaving it still pinned firmly in place.  

While the panels are off the work bench, round the leading edges with a sandpaper block and do any other necessary 
touch-up work with glue and sandpaper.  

Now the wing panels are ready to be attached to the center section. White glue is recommended for this job. Put small 
dabs of glue on the parts of the wing panel that will contact the center section. Then put the wing panel back in place 
over the plan.  

Lift up the tip of the wing panel and slide a 1/4" sq. piece of scrap balsa up to the outer W-5 ribs on each panel. (See 
wing spar drawing for dihedral details). Be sure that the inner end of the wing fits neatly against the center section. Don't 
use pins or heavy weights to hold it in place - they might cause a permanent twist in the wing.  

When all joints have had plenty of time to dry, the wing can be removed from the work bench.  

Taper the leading edge of the center section and the wing is ready for covering.  

Make the wing struts directly on the plan. When they are dry, round the edges and finish them in the same way as the 
cowling. 

 

Tail Surfaces

 
The stabilizer and fin are made over the plan much in the same manner as the fuselage sides. When dry, remove them and 
sand the edges to make a streamlined shape.

Covering And Assembly

 
It's important to follow this sequence to avoid time consuming mistakes. First cover the wing except for the center section, the 
tail surfaces, and the fuselage sides and bottom. Also cover the fuselage from F2T to F1. Covering should be an unhurried job. 
The tissue grain should run lengthwise in the area being covered. Tissue doesn't go around compound curves well so use 
several pieces in areas such as the fuselage bottom. Cement tissue with clear dope to the outline of the area you're covering, 
not to every rib or stringer. 
 
The fuselage side windows can be installed before or after covering the fuselage with tissue. A more professional looking job 
results when they are installed before covering but more care must be taken in cutting the tissue to fit around the windows.

Summary of Contents for Mr. Mulligan SIGF23 Classic Series

Page 1: ...co The remains were recovered by an airline pilot in 1972 Construction of the model is generally conventional but there are a few unusual features to make it easier to build and stronger Please read these instructions carefully so that you do not overlook the unique features and make time consuming errors Figure A shows the uncovered structure Begin by building the fuselage wing or tail first as p...

Page 2: ... 32 sheet Neatness is essential so take your time in making sure the sheets fit well Patterns are shown on the plan for the sheets between F l and F 2T and F 2B The sheet covering between F 2B and F 3 is a straight wrap and doesn t require a pattern Bevel the edge of the planking where it passes over F 3 so that the covering will blend onto the bottom stringers neatly Add the tail wheel housing pa...

Page 3: ...ed for this job Put small dabs of glue on the parts of the wing panel that will contact the center section Then put the wing panel back in place over the plan Lift up the tip of the wing panel and slide a 1 4 sq piece of scrap balsa up to the outer W 5 ribs on each panel See wing spar drawing for dihedral details Be sure that the inner end of the wing fits neatly against the center section Don t u...

Page 4: ...appear and these are easily removed by twisting the warped surface opposite from the warp while holding over the spout of a steaming tea kettle Wear gloves as steam can give nasty burns Add strut attach fitting to underside of the wings Trim struts to proper length and install The struts will prevent further warping of the inboard part of the wing but if the wing is warped before you install the s...

Page 5: ...e stringers to 1 32 x1 16 Make the wing spar of 1 32 x1 16 Use only the lightest indoor wood Use only one coat of clear dope or two coats thinned 50 with thinner The contest prop should be used but without free wheeling and with 1 32 plywood blades The rubber size should be reduced and adjusted to the height of the ceiling under which you are flying Decals Dip the decals in water for a few seconds...

Page 6: ... to the nose or tail until it DOES hang level Don t be afraid to add the necessary weight CORRECT BALANCE IS MORE IMPORTANT THAN LIGHT WEIGHT Modeling clay makes handy balancing weight it can be pressed permanently in any corner Wire solder or BB shot can be used by cementing in place If one blade of your propeller always swings to the bottom a tiny smear of clay on the other tip will improve the ...

Page 7: ... cut the fin loose and re cement it at the desired angle When the glide is smooth and steady you are ready to go on to powered tests Power On Flight ALL ADJUSTMENTS TO THE WOUND UP PART OF THE FLIGHT ARE MADE BY POINTING THE PROPELLER AND NOSEBLOCK IN THE DIRECTION YOU WANT THE PLANE TO GO This kind of adjustment affects only the powered flight and will not upset the glide pattern you have develop...

Page 8: ... needs If your ship is huskier than average it may not climb even when fully wound In that case add one strand not a complete loop of 1 8 Sig rubber to the motor Tie an eye like a slip knot in each end This will provide the extra horse power needed for higher climb Whenever you add rubber re balance your model as outlined in the pre flight instructions Additional rubber tends to make a plane tail ...

Page 9: ...ability Good Flying SIG MFG CO INC is totally committed to your success in both assembling and flying the Mr Mulligan Should you encounter any problem building this kit or discover any missing or damaged parts please feel free to contact us by mail or telephone SIG MFG CO INC 401 7 South Front Street Montezuma IA 50171 0520 SIG MODELER S ORDERLINE to order parts 1 800 247 5008 SIG MODELER S HOTLIN...

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