b) Decide on a good location for the ESC in the nose of the
airplane. The most likely location is against the fuselage side, out
of the way of the battery pack. Mount it to the airplane structure
using a method of your choice - like double-sided tape or Velcro®
(neither of these are provided).
c) Now route the ESC’s servo wire back to the receiver and
plug it in.
d) Connect the ESC's motor wires to the motor. Operate the
motor and check the direction of rotation. Always do this without
a propeller attached! If you need to reverse the rotation, refer to
the instructions that came with the motor and ESC.
SAFETY ISSUE:
We strongly recommend the use of an “arming
switch” for your motor installation. With an arming switch you can
install your battery pack in the airplane and hook up the wires
without danger of the motor starting. The arming switch keeps
the electricity away from the motor until you “arm” it when you are
ready to takeoff. The most common arming switches are a simple
external plug that puts a break in the positive battery lead to the
motor, such as the Maxx Products Arming Switch shown below.
There are also arming switches built into some of the advanced
ESCs now on the market.
❑
33) Two hook-&-loop (Velcro®) straps are provided to hold your
lipo battery pack in place inside the fuselage. Feed the straps
through the slots in one side of the plywood battery tray, and then
up through the other side, as shown in the photo.
Optional: In addition to the two straps, it is a good idea to use
hook-&-loop tape (not furnished) on the bottom of your battery
pack and on the top surface of the plywood battery tray, to make
sure the battery pack will not move around during aerobatics.
❑
34) Mount the cowling on the fuselage with the four M3 x 10mm
Screws provided. Notice that the holes for the four cowl mounting
screws are already pre-drilled in the cowling - two on each side.
a) First test fit the cowling on the fuselage. As you pass it over
the motor, make sure all the wires are out of the way. Carefully
adjust the exact position of the cowling. Make sure you have ad-
equate clearance between the front of the cowl and the back of
the propeller, and that the prop shaft is centered in the hole. Use
low tack tape to hold the cowling in place for the next step.
b) Use a 5/64" or #45 bit to drill a pilot hole for the top left cowl
mounting screw. Center the drill in the hole in the cowling and
drill into the fuselage side. Install an M3 x 10mm screw in the pilot
hole - do not over-tighten the screw.
c) Recheck the position of the cowling and make any adjust-
ments needed to get it back in position.
d) Now drill another pilot hole for the upper screw on the other
side of the cowling. Install the screw.
e) Repeat this process to install the two bottom cowl mounting
screws. Remove all the tape.
❑
35) COOLING IS IMPORTANT!
With a fully cowled motor, it is very important to make sure your
power system is getting proper cooling. Air flowing into the front
of the cowling must have a place to exit the cowl. In fact it’s best
to have more air exit area than inlet area to create a positive air
flow through the cowling - an actual suction effect - drawing the
heated air out of the cowling so that more cool air can come in.
This positive air flow keeps your motor running cool.
The KADET SENIOR cowling has openings in the front, on each
side of the prop opening, to let air in. It also has a generous sized
opening at the bottom rear edge of the cowling to let the air exit.
Cooling air can also exit the fuselage through the open tail end of
the airplane. In many cases these openings should provide ade-
quate cooling for the KADET SENIOR.
However if test flights indicate that your motor, ESC or battery
need more cooling, here are a couple additional cooling options.
Option #1) Cut a couple cooling slots in the top of the cowling
as shown. A Dremel® Tool, or similar rotary hand-tool, with an
assortment of bits is without a doubt the best tool to use for mak-
ing cutout in the fiberglass cowling. However, if you do not have
access to such a tool, you can cut the opening with a drill, a hobby
knife, and a sanding block. First first drill a series of almost touch-
ing 1/8” holes inside the pattern lines; then use the knife to cut
through the connecting material between each hole; and finally
finish the edges of the opening with the file or a sanding block.
Option #2) If you need more air flowing out of the fuselage,
make an additional air exit hole by removing the covering material
over the hole in the bottom rear of the fuselage.
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