.
36.
a. Notice that the die-cut lite-ply former F-2 has two dimple marks which are used to locate the holes for the wing hold-
down dowels. Glue F-2D to the die-cut lite- ply former F-2 so that the dimples remain showing.
b. Drill at the dimples in F-2, first with a 1/8" drill bit, then with a 1/4" drill bit, and finally with a 5/16" drill bit. Use a
chunk of hardwood behind the formers to keep the plywood from splintering as you drill through.
37.
Glue the die-cut lite-ply tailwheel mount (TWM) to aft end of FBR (Fuselage Bottom, Rear).
Basic Fuselage Construction
38.
a. The fuselage sides are spliced from two die-cut pieces. Align the pieces directly over the plan (protected with wax
paper), then apply medium CA to the splice joint.
b. Glue the die-cut fuselage doublers to the fuselage sides using slow CA or Kwik-Set epoxy, and allow to dry. Be sure
to make one left side and one right side!
39.
a. Carefully slip all the fuselage formers (F-1 through F-G) into place between the fuselage sides. Put a rubber band
around the fuselage at each former location to hold it tightly together.
b. Slide the die-cut lite-ply part FBR (Fuselage Bottom, Rear) under the rubber bands until it snaps into its proper
location between the fuselage sides. Do the same thing for the die-cut lite-ply part FT (Fuselage Top) and the die-
cut lite-ply Stab Support.
NOTE: The "Tee-Lock" tabs on the formers, FBR, and FT are made oversized to protrude past the fuselage sides. These
will be sanded off after the fuselage has been completely assembled.
40.
a. Place the fuselage over the top view on the plans to check its alignment. Even if some of the plywood is badly
warped, the interlocking parts are designed to be self-aligning. If there are any persistent warps or twists, now is the
time to fix it! Once the fuselage is glued, it can't be re-aligned. Double check that the opening at the back end of the
fuselage is square with the fuselage top. If necessary, gently twist or push the parts in the desired direction and use
masking tape to hold them there.
b. Carefully glue all of the parts permanently in place, preferably working from inside of the fuselage, using medium
CA. Start with small patches of glue in the corners, checking the fuselage alignment as you go. Then go back and
glue all of the joints on both sides. Leave the rubber bands and tape in place until all of the glue has dried
completely.
BUILDER'S TIP:
To assist in keeping the nose
section of the fuselage straight,
you can install the die-cut lite-ply
tank floor at this point, but it is
very important not to glue it in
place during part "b" of this step.
The tank floor should not be
glued in until step 45. Notice
that if you use the provided
engine mount, you will need to
cut some clearance notches at
the front of the tank floor to clear the two bottom blind nuts and mounting
bolts.
41.
a. Glue F-4T and F-5T to their slots in FT.
b. Add the die-cut lite-ply headrest HR to the top of FT. Use the 25 deg. side of the Dual Tool to get the correct angle.
42.
a. Glue the five 3/16"x3/8"x24" balsa fuselage stringers in place. Notice that the top stringer and the two bottom
stringers sit in notches in F-G, while the two middle stringers butt against the front face of F-G.
b. When dry, trim off the front of the stringers flush with the front of HR and the back of F-G. Save the scrap stringer
material for later.
Summary of Contents for Four-Star 120
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