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, All rights reserved.
NOTE: There have been installations where the ceiling was curvy enough and the DIN bar was
mounted flush enough so that it also had too much curve in it to mate to the case easily. If you
encounter this issue and have the space, you can alternatively engage the case onto the bar on one or
two screws on the end, and simply slide the case along, extending but not tightening the case screws
as you slide it along.
If you find the case won’t engage over the DIN rail on one side, there must be some mounting
forces that are spreading it wider (curve, etc.) Take the end that isn’t engaging and give it a squeeze
with pliers, narrowing it enough to engage fully into the case.
8) If you loosen the screws just enough so they don’t bite into the rail, but are protruding enough to hold
the case on the rail, you can slide the case along the ceiling to make sure it's where you want. Feel
free to bump the case into exactitude (that’s actually a word).
9) When it's where you want, there are six screws along the top of
the case. Tighten these so that the screen will be securely affixed
to the DIN rail. There are arrow marks on the foam wrap showing
you where they are.
10) Remove the foam wrap off the case.
11) Note there are several pieces of tape and things that keep the
materials where they should be. First, undo the blue velcro straps
you see on each end. These keep the weight bar happy during
shipment, but
must
be taken off prior to operating the screen.
12) We tie small black strings in each corner that attach the black
backing layer to the weight bar. This ensures that it will retract
properly from the case. Leave these alone, but it’s a good idea to
reach up and pull down the black backing material in the middle
and make sure it's down and will drop freely. You really want to
make sure it's free to drop before you hit the remote. Getting that layer backwards-wound in the case
is a disaster.
13) Don't worry about the tape on the weight bar. You can get that off after you drop the screen. After
you are sure the black backing is free to drop and all other blue bits are off the screen, plug it in and hit
the down button.
14) Check that the lower limit is ok, remove any remaining blue bits.
15) Check the vertical turnbuckles at the weight bar. Make sure they’re not bound up, either with the
cables twisted at the top of the eyelet, or the threads on the bar. If they are, the bar will be artificially
lifted, resulting in waves. Straighten any twisted cable and wiggle the bar to get it off the threads.
16) Check how the vertical cable and turnbuckles retract up into the screen case. You want them to
easily retract up into the case, without getting caught or hung up on either the front side of the case
near the foam strip, or the back side. If you hear any “clunk” sound, or see the motor bog down before
the screen is all the way up, check that these turnbuckles aren’t getting hung up. The fix is to just grab
the metal portion of the weight bar and rotate a few degrees to better align the turnbuckles into the slot.
17) Dial in your projector, go pop that popcorn, and enjoy!
