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3. 

Attach the Y cords to the upper jacks. Suspend the Y cords from the upper jacks so that each cord passes behind its 

corresponding shaft.

4. 

Place lower lamms on lamm pivot rod.

5. 

Attach Y cord to each lower lamm (pass cord through hole in lamm and attach with clip below lamm).

6. 

Suspend the treadles from treadle pivot rod. (It is a good idea to position all the treadles whether you are using them all or 

not.)

7. 

Loop tie-up cords around all treadles for all shafts (marked black notches should be at end of cord farthest from the loop.)

8. 

Tie treadles to lamms according to tie-up. Every cord on every treadle is attached to either a lower lamm (to make the shaft 

go up—BOTTOMS UP!) or an upper lamm (to make the shaft go down). A cord tied to an upper lamm must pass in front of the 

corresponding lower lamm for its shaft (not through a hole in the lower lamm). To tie, pass the cord up through the appropriate 

lamm hole, push the tab on the texsolv clip through the marked notch (black for upper lamms, red for lower), and stick the two 

legs of the clip down into the hole in the lamm.

9. 

Remove the locking pins. It is important that the down shed be even so that the shuttle can travel smoothly from selvedge 

to selvedge. It doesn’t really matter if the upper shed is uneven; it must only be big and clean enough for the shuttle to travel 

through. Adjustments can be made if the shed is not even enough.

10. 

Step on each treadle to check each shed. If any shaft does not go down (or up) enough, tighten the tie for that shaft on that 

treadle (i.e., make the cord shorter by moving the clip one notch closer to the treadle). If any shaft moves up or down too much 

more than the others, loosen the tie for that shaft (move the clip one notch away from the treadle). Remember that any clip you 

move will only affect that shaft on that treadle; you can’t wreck anything by moving a clip.

11. 

The loom will function best if you tie up at least eight treadles. If you don’t need that many for a particular tie-up, tie the 

treadles you are not using (up to eight) as though they are weaving an even/odd tabby (alternately evens/odds up/down) (or, if 

they were tied-up for some previous weaving, leave them as they were).

12. 

Sometimes the front shafts sag when the loom is at rest—their heddles will appear loose. This can be counteracted by tying 

one treadle (usually the one farthest from the pivot point) to the lower lamms for that shaft(s) and weighting it if necessary. This 

sagging is not a problem except with very fine warps—the sagging heddles can catch on adjacent threads, pulling them counter to 

the movement of their own shafts during treadling, causing them to break.

Miscellaneous

1. 

Note that the upper lamm tilts slightly upward as it moves away from the pivot point. The treadles will therefore rise slightly 

higher as they are further away from the pivot point.

2. 

It is important that the warp be centered in the loom. There should be as many warp ends to the right of the Y cord as to the 

left.

3. 

If heddles don’t slide easily on the shaft bars, tie a cord around the shafts at each side so that the shaft bars move slightly 

closer together, loosening the heddles on the shafts (this may not be necessary on the Cranbrook; I couldn’t tell how easy it is to 

slide the heddles).

4. 

For very fine warps, the texsolv Y cords can be too rough. They can be replaced with a smooth dacron fish line or other 

material (or covered with a plastic tube) or some other method devised to insure that they do not rub or catch on the warp.

5. 

Beater height: the warp should be in the middle of the reed at rest.

6. 

Beater position (forward or back): I don’t personally find it necessary to have many positions for the beater. The best spot 

allows maximum shed formation without too much pushing back of the beater. It is best to advance the warp often and beat in 

approximately the same place throughout weaving.

Summary of Contents for CRANBROOK LOOM

Page 1: ...CRANBROOK LOOM Assembly Manual Find out more at schachtspindle com Schacht Spindle Company 6101 Ben Place Boulder CO 80301 p 303 442 3212 f 303 447 9273 2019 Schacht Spindle Company Inc 01 19...

Page 2: ...ith You ll also find 2 Allen wrenches sizes 5 16 and 5 32 in a hardware bag SMALL PARTS 4 shaft 8 shaft 12 Treadle Option 24 80 96 anchor pegs 24 80 96 tie up cords tied bundles of 12 each 10 10 10 bu...

Page 3: ...les 1 1 lower lamm assembly with extension blocks attached 4 8 upper lamms 4 8 shaft top 4 8 shaft bottom 1 1 warp beam brake release assembly 2 2 beater uprights 1 1 beater race 1 1 beater top 1 1 be...

Page 4: ...ng bar cloth beam treadles treadle separator beam with treadle locks beater upright beater top steel back beam warp beam wheel beater race warp beam steel knee beam worm gear jack box brake hold brake...

Page 5: ...ce down and the front cross beam in their mortises Figure 2 Now insert the middle cross beam in the right side frame and at the same time bring the left side frame into place and support all three bea...

Page 6: ...Guide the left cloth beam axle into its corresponding 1 hole 6 FIGURE 3 WORM GEAR right front upright shaft collar cloth beam hole 3 hole 1 right cloth beam support brake hold peg brake hold hole 4 h...

Page 7: ...ee Figure 2 page 5 Working from the outside secure each side with two 1 4 x 3 1 4 hex bolts in this order bolt 1 4 washer side frame 1 4 washer nylock nut The adjuster bar slots make it possible to se...

Page 8: ...gure 1 page 4 Thread a 1 2 flat washer and then a 1 2 fender washer onto each of two 3 truss head bolts Insert the bolts into both ends of the beam and turn the bolts about 1 2 deep into the fittings...

Page 9: ...1 2 flat washer then through the pawl hole from the outer side of the frame On the inner side of the frame add the following hardware as shown in Figure 8 1 2 flat washer slim nylock nut pawl 1 2 fla...

Page 10: ...he lock blocks and pegs Place the warp beam wheel over the square shaft of the warp beam Figure 9 10 INSTALL THE WARP BEAM BRAKE RELEASE ASSEMBLY Parts brake release pedal and connector strut Locate t...

Page 11: ...in the loop with the black mark ASSEMBLE THE BEATER Parts beater swing bar beater top beater race 2 beater uprights Working on the floor assemble the beater uprights to the beater race insert a 1 4 b...

Page 12: ...not using in tabby or twill tie ups until you have eight treadles tied if they were tied up for a previous weaving leave them as they were Now remove the jack lock pins The shafts will drop slightly...

Page 13: ...42 floor shaft suspension cord green mark upper stationary lamm pulls shaft directly down lower lamm makes shaft rise bottoms up 7 9 This figure was originally provided by Madelyn van der Hoogt It has...

Page 14: ...shafts since these are most often the culprits The Y cord from the upper jacks to the lower lamm passes in back of the shaft and the upper lamm The cord from the treadle to the upper lamm passes in f...

Page 15: ...pron rods Lower shed is uneven Upper lamms not all tied in the black mark Check tie up cords to upper lamms Lift up on shafts to determine which shaft is in error and adjust the tie up cord accordingl...

Page 16: ...To adjust either shorten or lengthen the tie up cord to the suspended upper lamm To shorten the cord attach the anchor peg one notch below the black mark to lengthen attach one notch above the black m...

Page 17: ...the pivot point of the lower lamm it is more difficult to move the lamm If treadles are tied too far away from the pivot point rising treadles are more likely to interfere with sinking lower lamms The...

Page 18: ...reck anything by moving a clip 11 The loom will function best if you tie up at least eight treadles If you don t need that many for a particular tie up tie the treadles you are not using up to eight a...

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