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burr on the shaft at the edge of the milled notch – remove any burr you may find in this area with your
file before trying to remove the carriage shaft.
Pull out the carriage shaft.
Use a piece of 1” diameter hard wood dowel purchased from your local hardware store. Cut off apiece
about 6” long and use it to pound out the bearings with a hammer.
Cut off a piece of 1” diameter hard wood dowel about 1 foot long and trim one end to ¾” diameter
about ½” long - to fit onto the new bronze Oilite® bearing.
From the right side of the machine push the 1” hardwood dowel through the 1” diameter-bearing hole
– go almost all the way through to the left side of the machine where the first bearing will be installed.
Slip the new bronze Oilite® bearing onto the modified end of the dowel and position the bearing onto
the 1” diameter hole. Notice the dowel pin going through the first hole and the bearing sitting at the
entrance of the 1” diameter hole act on their behalf for their own alignment. Use your hammer to
pound on the end of the dowel and drive the bronze Oilite® bearing into its hole. Remove the dowel
and insert the new carriage shaft – leave the end of the carriage shaft extended about ½” out of the
right side bearing hole and place your second bearing onto this shaft. Notice that the carriage shaft
now acts as an alignment guide for the second bearing. Use your 6” piece of 1” diameter hardwood
dowel and your hammer to pound in this bronze Oilite ® bearing.
Test to see if the new carriage shaft slides between the two bearings. If you were careful and pounded
them in straight you should be able to continue with the rest of the reassembly right away. If the
carriage shaft is just a little stiff you can probably leave it alone and let it work itself in over time. If
the carriage shaft seems to be tight then use a medium size plastic mallet and tap on the shaft in all
directions accessible to “settle” in the bearings. Stop when the carriage shaft gets just loose enough to
use.
Reassemble in the reverse order and refer to section in this manual titled HOW DO I REPLACE. .
The Carriage Spring and complete your assembly.
You should recheck the depth, depth overtravel and space adjustments on your machine and readjust as
necessary.
WHY DID WE DO IT THAT WAY . . .
Key Gauges
We are often asked why
we didn’t make our key gauges flip down automatically when the carriage is
released. It’s a good question and deserves answering. We choose full-function key gauges instead.
We’re committed to incorporate unique and useful features into our products wherever we can. We
felt that if we could incorporate a built-in key gauging system that worked for almost all the key
gauging requirements you would benefit more from this than having ordinary top shoulder key gauges
that automatically blip-away when the carriage is released. Think about it – three key gauging
possibilities that don’t flip away automatically verses only one key gauging possibility that does flip
away.
Why Such a Big Cutter
The bigger the cutter the less noticeable the radius is in the pin seat area of the duplicated key.
Why Such an Unusual Vise Jaw Design
Simple – we built these vise jaws in a way that resembles a machine shop milling machine vise. No
milling machine vises uses a pivoting action jaw - parts would be flying out all the time! With a
pivoting action jaw you only have one theoretical size thickness that will clamp properly.
Why Make the Bottom Jaw Move Instead of the Top Jaw Like all the Other Machines
Summary of Contents for RY256
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