Manual for building the 1:1200
Manual for building the 1:1200
Manual for building the 1:1200
Manual for building the 1:1200
RMS OLYMPIC 1911 model
RMS OLYMPIC 1911 model
RMS OLYMPIC 1911 model
RMS OLYMPIC 1911 model
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In these instructions, the terms forward (bow) and aft (stern) refer to the
front and rear ends of the ship. Port and starboard refer to the left and
right sides. Scoring of parts is indicated by thin black lines outside the partís
outline, and by dashed or shaded lines on the partís surface. For
small parts such as the deckhouses and cranes it is recommended that
outside corners (ëmountainí folds) are scored by gently scribing the score
line with a knife resulting in a sharp corner when folded . Score parts before
cutting them out. In the diagrams, subassemblies are identified by
a number within a circle (e.g. ), corresponding to the step in which it was
assembled.
Step 1
: Laminate the
lateral
formers
to
heavy
card
stock,
such
that
the
combined thickness is
about 1mm or 0.04 inches. Cut out the formers after laminating. Assemble
the lengthwise former (
step 2
) taking care to only glue the central (blue
shaded) area and allowing the flaps at the bottom to fold outward. Cut the
upper profile after gluing and fold as shown in the diagrams. Assemble the
internal structure by gluing the lateral formers into slots in the lengthwise
former (
step 3
). Some pieces must be oriented such that the printed side
faces aft; these are labelled as such. Attach the well deck stiffeners
(step 4
)
into the appropriate slots.
At this stage the model should be attached to either a temporary work base
(
step 5
) or to the optional display base (
step 6
). This prevents the frame
from warping during subsequent steps. If using a temporary base, apply only
a small amount of glue so the ship may be later detached easily.
Attach the forecastle and poop decks to the frame (
step 7
). The forward tip of
the forecastle will protrude slightly beyond the front of the frame.
The shaping and attaching of the hull surfaces are somewhat challenging.
Dry-fitting and careful attention to the drawings will help. Attach the
connecting strips to the main and stern sections of the starboard hull
surface (
step 8
). To avoid gaps, bend the parts as closely as possible to
match the contour of the frame before gluing the stern section to the main
section. Repeat for the port hull parts and glue port and starboard together
at the rudder only (
step 9
). Slide the hull pieces around the frame from the
stern, such that the rudder is positioned underneath the stern overhang
(
step 10
). The rear edge of the hull plating should align with the centre of
the rearmost lateral former. Beginning at the stern and working forward,
glue the hull surface to the frame. The well deck cutouts on the top of the
hull should match the fore and aft bulkheads of the well decks. Finally, join
the port and starboard surfaces where they meet at the bow. Form the
counter plating into shape (
step 11
) and attach over the stern framework. If
you are using a temporary work base, the ship may be detached now.
Fold and attach the decks and bulkheads just behind the forward well deck
(
step 12
) and in front of the aft well deck (
step 13
). The aft promenade deck
