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Forward versus Rear
It is imperative you understand the difference between the FORWARD and REAR ends of a rocket to fully comprehend the
instructions. The forward end is towards the Main Nose Cone and the rear end is towards the Engine Hook. Refer to the
exploded view on page 3 and note how certain parts are labeled based on their relative location to the Forward and Rear ends,
for example the Forward Centering Ring.
Assembly Tip
Read all instructions and locate all parts before beginning assembly. Find or procure all additional items. Organize a suitable
work area and layout parts and tools in front of you. Test fit all parts together during each assembly step before applying
any glue, especially when using CA. If any parts don't fit sand as needed to ensure precise assembly. Don't rush, work
methodically through each step ensuring you complete the previous step before moving onto the next step.
Working with CA Glue
Cyanoacrylate (CA) glue is both a blessing and a curse. It bonds and hardens very quickly enabling you to proceed from step-
to-step, but the fast drying time also minimizes the amount of time you have to adjust the position of parts. The key to working
with CA glue is to make sure you understand the steps and test fit all parts prior to gluing. Don't use an accelerator. Most CA
glues (i.e., ZAP) come in a variety of drying times. We recommend a mid-drying time (i.e., ZAP, Green 5-10 seconds) for
general purpose use. Be careful to avoid getting glue on your fingers and skin. Should you accidentally glue your fingers
together use nail polish remover to soften the CA.
ONE FINAL NOTE, CA GIVES OFF FUMES WHICH CAN IRRITATE
EYES AND LUNGS. MAKE SURE YOU USE CA WITH ADEQUATE VENTILATION.
Assembly Attack Strategy
It is always a good idea to have an attack strategy when building a model and is one reason we stress reading the entire
manual first. The instructions are broken into four main sections - Engine Mount Assembly & Installation, Upper & Lower Main
Body Tube Assemblies, Finishing, and Final Assembly, The easiest assembly strategy is to simply start with the Engine Mount
Assembly & Installation and perform each step in sequence through all four main sections. To speed up the process during
times when glue needs to dry, other steps can be done in parallel, for example preparing the Main Nose Cone. Understanding
fully all steps could also help identify other steps that can be done in parallel. What ever your strategy is make sure you
understand the entire assembly process, check off steps, and ensure any
parallel assembly
doesn't effect other assembly
steps. All time estimates are based on performing the assembly one step at a time.
Weight, Weight, Weight !
Watching weight goes beyond your own belt line. Rockets shouldn’t become “Glue Bombs”. There is a tendency to think
more glue is better, it is not. Excess glue simply adds unnecessary weight and therefore decreases a rocket’s performance.
The XP line of kits have been designed to be rugged kits for Sports Class Rocketry. Yes they are not designed for the” high
performance dudes”, but are high quality kits for the “fun- fly crowd”. We encourage you to control weight and performance by
limiting the amount of glue used for fillets, applying thin coats of primer and paint, sanding and shaping fins, and sanding down
nose cones. There are thousands of great internet sites and forums to help with construction techniques, check them out!
Blowin’ in the Wind !
Upscale kits are great, but are typically more exposed to such real phenomena as “Wind Cocking”. Upscales are heavier and
depending on the thrust spike of the motor used(i.e., D12, E9, etc.) they typically have lower take off speeds. The lower take
off speed makes them more vulnerable to the wind. Proper engine sizing, flying in appropriate weather, using longer launch
rods, and respecting the NAR Safety code will help stop you from Blowin’ in the Wind. We highly recommend Harry Stine’s
book, “Handbook of Model Rocketry” to learn more about rocket flight dynamics.
Cleaning Plastic Molded Parts
We create our plastic parts using a two-part plastic modeling process that uses aluminum molds. The molds are split molds.
The halves are clamped together and a two part liquid plastic is poured into the cavity. A core is then inserted squeezing the
liquid plastic upwards between the cavity and the core. To prevent the mold cavity and core from sticking to the plastic as it
hardens “mold release” is used. The mold release can interfere with finishing paint. To properly clean the plastic parts first
wipe them down with a clean soft cloth. Apply isopropyl alcohol to a second soft clean cloth and wipe the parts thoroughly. Let
parts dry and repeat the alcohol wipe down. Finally buff parts one last time with a dry soft cloth.
It’s a Manual not a Bible!
We take pride in our manuals, but there is no way to convey years of modeling experience from a huge knowledge base of
model rocketeers. We highly suggest searching the web for building techniques, joining a forum to help answer questions,
and/or becoming a member of a club. Remember the best aspect of any hobby is sharing ideas, telling stories, and laughing
with co-hobbyist.