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Chapter 9: Electrical Components
The Storm electric components were developed to be maintenance free with no serviceable parts. There are 5
components used to power your bicycle. Each component can easily be replaced by the average person with minimal
mechanical skills. The design has been simplified so your local bicycle shop can service it without issue and minimal
time. Please review the sections below on the electrical components used on your Prodeco bicycle and how to replace a
component for a new one. Each electrical component is listed, except for the battery which was detailed in Chapter 8.
Each individual component part number can be found in Chapter 12.
a)
HUB motor
The HUB motor utilized on your Storm is one of the most advanced e-bike HUB motors developed today. It is a high
efficiency, high torque brushless geared motor with a free spinning drive system. The motor will spin freely, the same as a
traditional bike hub, only engaging when the throttle is applied. You will be able to pedal your bike the same as a traditional
non-electric bike if choosing not to throttle and engage the motor.
The gear system in your Prodeco Technologies motor is 20% stronger than the typical other geared hub motors in the
industry. The motor offers a nominal 300W of power at 36 Volts and a peak of 504W. The power is sufficient to move the
bicycle and rider on flat surfaces at speeds up to twice what a typical rider pedals. Steep inclines will require pedaling by the
rider to power over the incline. It is highly suggested the rider pedals along with the motor to enhance traveling distance even
on flat surfaces. The motor is powered through a ―Hall Effect Sensor‖ approach. A ―Hall Effect Sensor‖ motor is powered in 3
stator phases. As power is phased, the motor advances forward. The axle of the motor is the spindle of the stator. The stator
remains fixed while an internal Neodymium magnet hub floats over the stator and gears the exterior hub forward.
A weatherproof connector at the motor connects the wiring harness to the motor. This connector is an 8 pin brass connector and
designed to withstand the elements. If the motor needs to be replaced, the connector simply has to be unplugged for the motor to
be removed as explained in Chapter 6, section b. When installing the motor, it is very important the connector is plugged properly
or the motor will not power. There are 2 arrows, one on each end of the connector which must align. There is an additional line on
the inside connector which must meet the edge of the outside connector when inserting for the motor to have a solid connection.
The motor is covered under warranty as a complete wheel including spokes and rim to the consumer. If the motor fails, contact
Prodeco Technologies or the closest Authorized service center for a replacement. Simply remove the motor as explained in
Chapter 6. The motor can also be purchased separately. Refer to Chapter 12 for the part number and price.
b)
Brushless hall sensor controller
The motor on the Storm
requires a specific controller to properly produce the right ―Hall Sensor Effect‖ as described in
the previous section regarding the motor. The controller that comes with your bicycle has been designed to be easily
changed if an issue was to occur. The controller is considered the brains of the bicycle and is located in the battery base
which is attached to the bicycle. The battery base is the box where the key inserts for the ignition. The bolts holding the
cover to the base can easily be removed within a few minutes. Once the cover is off of the battery base, the controller
can be disconnected. If removing the controller, you must first remove the battery completely from the bicycle. There is
only one way to connect and disconnect the controller from the bicycle. No two connections are the same.
c)
Wiring harness
Your bicycle uses a separate wiring harness for the motor to plug to the controller. This allows for easy replacement.
d)
Throttle
(SEE PHOTO)
The variable throttle included with all Prodeco bicycles has an
On/Off button. The red button below the battery indicator on the
throttle engages the power to the motor. The twist throttle was
designed to allow you the ability to choose the riding speed and
determine the amount of torque off the line. Similar to an
automobile, the throttle mimics the depressing of the
accelerator. The higher the speed, the less distance per charge
(less distance per gas tank), the faster you accelerate off the
line, the less distance per charge. If there are multiple stop and
starts, this will also affect the range of distance per charge. It is
recommended you become accustomed to your riding style and
adjust the style depending on distance needed per charge. For
example: if you are planning a short local trip, full throttle at
takeoff and top speed will not be an issue due to your ability to
be able to recharge the battery prior to the next trip. If you are
planning a longer trip, 30-40 miles or more, it is suggested you
add pedaling, hold throttle back 10% and whenever possible
allow the bicycle to coast under no power. Coasting under no
power is similar to riding a traditional pedal powered bicycle.
When riding, a rider will pedal for a few seconds and then stop
pedaling, allowing the bike to coast with no power being used.
This will greatly enhance your distance between charging.
The throttle incorporates an LED battery indicator to assist the rider with determining the amount of charge left in the battery.
You should also understand the LED indicators react according to load. There is 1 Green LED, 1 Yellow and 1 Red LED. If
the Green LED no longer lights while the bike is not being powered, it is time to recharge the battery. The Green LED does
not always represent a fully charged battery though. For example, the Green LED may be lit until a steep incline. As you
ride up the incline, you may notice the Green LED will dim as the motor increases the pulling of Amps from the battery.
Depending on the load being placed on the motor and/or grades of incline, the green LED dimming represents the accurate
battery capacity. Upon the Green LED no longer being lit during riding, particularly under no load, the battery should be
charged prior to the next ride. If the Green LED is dimming under light loads, the battery could be under 50% capacity and
should be charged. After multiple rides and charges, you will become familiar with the distance per charge available based
on your riding style and terrain. For rides close to home with nominal pedaling needed, you should attempt to fully discharge
your battery to enhance your understanding on distances per charge.
