21
Derailleur Troubleshooting
Problem
Cause
Remedy
Chain jumps from smallest
sprocket to frame dropout.
High gear limit screw is not
adjusted properly.
Turn in "screw H" until the guide pullet is
aligned with the smallest sprocket.
Difficult or impossible to shift
chain onto smallest sprocket.
High gear limit screw is not
adjusted properly.
Unscrew "screw H" until the guide pullet is
aligned with the smallest sprocket.
Chain jumps over largest sprocket
and falls between the spokes and
largest sprockets or inner cage
plate scrapes on spokes.
Low gear limit screw is not
adjusted properly.
Turn in "screw L" until the guide pullet is
aligned with the largestest sprocket.
Rear derailleur or derailleur
hanger is bent.
Straighten or replace.
Delayed shifting.
Clearance between guide
pulley / sprocket is too large.
Adjust 'b-adjust screw" by rotating
counterclockwise.
Rough shifting behavior.
Clearance between guide
pulley / sprocket is too small.
Adjust 'b-adjust screw" by rotating clockwise.
Shifts more gears onto smaller
sprockets than intended.
Shift cable insufficiently
tensioned.
Turn barrel adjuster on the shifter
counterclockwise.
Delayed shifting onto larger
sprocket.
Shift cable insufficiently
tensioned.
Turn barrel adjuster on the shifter
counterclockwise.
Delayed shifting onto smaller
sprocket.
Shift cable is too tight.
Turn barrel adjuster on the shifter clockwise.
Excessive cable friction,
pinch or poorly routed cable.
Lubricate or replace cable & housing. Check
for excessive bending of cable housing.
f)
Wheel check
From time to time you should check the truing of your wheel and the condition of your spokes. Your spokes can become loose
over a period of time, especially if your wheel needs truing. The easiest way to check the truing of your wheels is as follows:
Make sure the battery is turned off and the key is out of the ignition.
It is best to turn the bicycle upside down and place it on a blanket to avoid scratching the handlebar controls or
saddle. When turning the bicycle upside down, rest the bicycle on the handlebar and saddle. If you prefer not turning
the bicycle upside down you will need to pick up the wheel off the ground to test.
Pick up the front of the bicycle by the handlebar and spin the wheel, the wheel should spin straight. If the wheel
wobbles from side to side more than 1/8‖, the wheel should be trued. Truing is required to be performed by a person
familiar with truing. Bring your bicycle to your local bicycle shop to true the wheel. To check the rear wheel, pick up
the back of the bicycle by the frame and repeat the step above.
To check for spoke tension, this can be done by squeezing 2 parallel spokes together. The spokes should be tight and
you should not be able to bend the spokes. If the spokes bend and feel lose, it is important to bring the bicycle to your
local bicycle shop and ask for them to tighten the spokes and true the wheel.
WARNING:
When placing your hands near the wheels of your bicycle, you must confirm the key has
been removed from the battery and the battery is removed from the bicycle. If the motor powers while your
hands are near the wheels, you could become seriously injured.
g)
Lubricating
A common area of maintenance with all bicycles is lubrication. Your Outlaw was designed to be virtually maintenance
free but depending on the amount of riding and the environment, your bicycle should be lubricated from time to time.
Areas not requiring lubrication are the HUBs, Bottom Brackets and Headset. They have bearing systems which do not
require lubrication and any maintenance on these areas should be performed by a service agent.
Lubricating is always at the point where 2 surfaces touch together and friction is created. Your local neighborhood bicycle
shop or most mass merchants who sell bicycles will offer various types of lubes for your bicycle. Below are the areas you
should lubricate according to your maintenance schedule at the end of this chapter.
Chain:
The chain should be lubricated at each of the links. You can turn the crank counter clockwise while
lubricating each area of pivot.
Forks:
Your forks are suspension forks and you should use a lubricant which does not dissolve rubber
seals. Place a few drops where the fork stanchions (top legs) enter the seals of the lower legs.
Brakes:
Where the brake arms pivot will require a drop of lubricant. Do not put lubricant on the brake rotors
or pads. The brake levers pivot pins require a drop of lube at the top of the pin.
Any other type of lubrication or greasing of bearings should be performed by an authorized Prodeco Technologies dealer.
h)
Crankset
The crankset of your Outlaw is a multi-piece system which includes a bottom bracket, crank arms, chainring, chainring
bolts, chain guard and chain. All items are designed as maintenance free components except for lubricating the chain
from time to time. The bottom bracket is a sealed bearing system with no serviceable parts. Each component of the
crankset has an industry standard measurement and is available through your dealer or through Prodeco Technologies
directly. Traditional bicycle components will also fit into these measurements. Please refer to the Chapter 12 Parts and
Components list for replacement part numbers and the part measurements.
i)
Headset
The headset is a sealed bearing system with CNC’d aluminum alloy cups. The system is designed to offer years of issue-
free performance. These are maintenance free systems and should not be serviced by anyone other than a knowledgeable
bicycle repair shop. The headset is what holds the fork steerer tube tight to the frame. If you notice the handlebar is loose to
the fork, bring your bicycle to a local bicycle shop so they can readjust the stem and tighten the headset.
