4
Notice REVERSO D15 réf. : D15500-02
(EN) ENGLISH
Nomenclature of parts
(1) retainer, (2) attachment point,(3) housing,
(4) braking surface
Checking, points to verify
Before use, check the body of the REVERSO. If there is
any doubt about the condition of the device, return it to
PETZL for inspection.
Instructions for use
The REVERSO is a belay device for the leader
or second, for use with double dynamic ropes
(2 half ropes or 2 twins) or single dynamic
rope. When attached to the belay using the
attachment point (2), it may be used in self-locking
belay mode to belay one or two seconds.
It may also be used to rappel.The REVERSO
was designed primarily for use with double ropes.
(*) The term «rope*» refers to either one or
two strands of rope, depending on whether one or
two slots of the REVERSO are used.
Diagram 1: Installation
Clip a locking HMS carabiner to the retainer (1).
Attach the carabiner to the belay loop of the harness.
Insertone or two loops of rope* into the slot(s) of the
REVERSO, clip the loop(s) and lock the carabiner.
Diagram 2: Belaying the leader
The belayer should be securely anchored before
belaying a partner. It is important to run the
leader’s rope* through a directional anchor.
-Giving slack:
With your hand on the free end of the rope*,
push the rope* upwards, creating a loop of
slack. Pull rope* through the REVERSO as needed
with the hand on the active end of the rope*.
-Taking up slack:
The hand on the free end of the rope* pulls on the
rope* to take up slack.
-Arresting a fall
To effectively arrest a fall, pull firmly downward on the
free end of the rope*.
(Before use, take time to test the REVERSO
in a safe environment with your rope* to get
a feel for how much force is necessary to
exert on the rope* in order to arrest a fall.)
The use of gloves is recommended.
Diagram 3: Belaying the second
Do not proceed until you are securely attached
to the belay.
3A. Belaying the second without the self-locking
feature:
install the rope* in the REVERSO as shown in diagram
1. The second’s rope* must be redirected through the
belay. Use this technique to belay a second when it
is necessary to give slack (in a traverse, for example).
3B. Belaying the second in self-locking mode:
using the attachment point (2), attach the REVERSO
to the belay with a locking carabiner. Insert one or
two loop(s) of rope* into the slot(s) of the REVERSO
(the active end of the rope* positioned above the free
end). Clip the loop(s) of rope* and the retainer (1)
with a locking HMS carabiner, and lock the carabiner.
Verify that the rope* is properly installed by pulling
on the active (climber’s) end; the rope should
jam in the REVERSO.
With both hands, slide the rope* smoothly through
the system. In case the second falls, the system
jams the rope* and arrests the fall. It is very
important to always hold the free end of the rope*.
Warning: the device must be able to operate
freely at all times. Its operation must never be
impeded by contact with the cliff or other obstacle.
Warning: it is not possible to give slack with the
rope under tension. A good knowledge of mechanical
advantage techniques is required to unlock the system
(see www.petzl.com).
Diagram 4: Using the self-locking mode to
belay two seconds climbing together
Warning: when belaying two seconds, if one of the
two seconds is hanging on the rope, it is necessary
to pay closeattention to the rope on which the other
is climbing (4A). Small rope diameters (8 mm to
8.5 mm), the condition of the sheath (new, dry
finish, wet, icy) and the position of the carabiner
(4B) can disable the self-locking function: danger of
death. Taking up slack steadily and firmly gripping
the two ends of rope helps to reduce the risk.
Recommendation for belaying two seconds climbing
together: use 2 certified single ropes, one rope for each
second. Belaying a second with only one strand of a
rope that is certified half or twin presents more risk
(cutting of the rope on a sharp edge...).
Diagram 5: Switching leads
When the second arrives, he attaches himself securely
to the belay. The belayer moves the REVERSO from
the belay to his harness (set up as in diagram 1).
In this manner, the second becomes the leader. It is
important to run the leader’s rope through a directional
anchor.
Diagram 6: Rappelling
Install the two ends of the rope in the REVERSO as
shown in diagram 1. Use a rappell backup system
(Shunt or Prusik). Tighten your grip on the free ends of
the rope to slow the descent.
Diagram 7: Occasional rope climbing
Install the REVERSO in self-locking mode as indicated
in diagram 7.
General information
Important notice : Specific training is
essential before use
Read this notice carefully, it gives instructions for
the use of this product. Only the techniques shown
in the diagrams and not crossed out are authorised.
All other uses are excluded : danger of death.
A few examples of misuse and forbidden uses
are also represented (shown in the crossed out
diagrams or with the “skull and crossbones” symbol).
Many other types of misuse exist and it is
impossible to enumerate or even imagine all of them.
In case of doubt or difficulty in understanding,
contact PETZL.
Activities at height are dangerous activities which
may lead to severe injury or even death.
Gaining an adequate apprenticeship in appropriate
techniques and methods of protection is your own
responsibility. You personally assume all risks and
responsibilities for all damage, injury or death
which may occur during or following incorrect
use of our products in any manner whatsoever.
If you are not able, or not in a position to assume
this responsibility or to take this risk, do not use this
equipment.
Use
This product must only be used by competent and
responsible persons, or those placed under the direct
and visual control of a competent and responsible
person. Personal protective equipment (PPE) is to
be used only on or with energy absorbing systems
(for example dynamic ropes, energy absorbers
etc...). Check that this product is compatible
with the other components of your equipment.
To prolong the life of this product, care is necessary,
when transporting as well as when using it. Avoid
impacts, or rubbing against abrasive surfaces or sharp
edges.It is up to the user to foresee situations requiring
rescue in case of difficulties encountered while using
this product.
Checking = safety
Do not hesitate to scrap a product showing
signs of wear which might affect its strength,
or restrict its operation.
For your safety we advise you to adopt a
3-level checking schedule:
- before and after each use it is necessary to check the
condition of the product,
- during use, it is important to regularly monitor
the condition of the product and of its connections
to the other elements of the system.
- Periodically, a more thorough inspection must be
carried out by a competent inspector: approximately
every three months for textile products and helmets,
approximately annually for metallic products.
For more safety and better control of your equipment,
we advise you to keep an inspection record
for each product or batch of products.
It is preferable to personally issue each user of
P.P.E. such as helmets, impact absorbers or textile
products, with his or her own set of equipment
to ensure better traceability.
On the other hand, it is not necessary to personally
issue metallic equipment or anchors to a single user.
Major fall and impact
Do not continue to use this product after a major
fall or a major impact (fall of the product or impact
on the product). Even though no external signs may
be visible, a deformation may restrict its operation or
internal damage may have occurred, thus reducing its
strength. Do not hesitate to contact PETZL in case of
doubt.
Lifetime = length of time in s
length of time in use
Length of time in storage (in favourable conditions):
Helmets, harnesses, webbing slings and lanyards:
5 years
Metallic products: no limitation.
Maximum length of time in use (without taking
account of wear):
Helmets and harnesses: 5 years
Webbing slings and lanyards: 3 years
Metallic products: no limitation.
The operational lifetime depends on the intensity
of use. It is difficult to give a precise lifetime
because this depends on the environment where it
is used. Certain environments considerably increase
the amount of wear: marine or sandy environments,
or where chemicals are present. However wear or
damage could occur on the first use which reduces
the lifetime of the product to that one single use.
For webbing slings and lanyards, because of their
direct contact with supporting structures and the heavy
demands that usage places on them, their average
operational lifetime is 6 months heavy use, 12 months
normal use, 3 years maximum occasional use.
PETZL guarantee
This product is guaranteed for 3 years against any
faults in materials or manufacture. Exclusions from
the guarantee: normal wear and tear, modifications
or alterations, incorrect storage, damage due to
accidents, to negligence, or for use in a way for which
the product was not intended. PETZL is not responsible
for the consequences, direct, indirect or accidental,
or any other type of damage befalling or resulting from
the use of its products.
