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Panoz Esperante GTS
Panoz Esperante GTS
Panoz Esperante GTS
RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance
23.
Using an alignment tool (contact Tremec or
Quarter Master for tool) place the six 5/16” bolts
into the holes and lightly tighten them down. In a
motion similar to the installation of the flywheel,
torque the cover bolts to 20 ft-lbs (use blue loc
tite on bolts). Check to make sure that the align
ment tool still moves in and out freely. Re-torque
the bolts to insure proper torque (If the torque is
not applied correctly, or the star pattern is not
used, the clutch may not work properly and the
life and performance will be drastically reduced.)
Remove the alignment tool.
24.
Gently place the bell housing onto it’s two align
ment pins and push it until it is flush with the back
of the engine. You may need to use a rubber mal
let to properly seat it flush with the engine
face.Then install the six 1/2” bolts and torque
them to 28-38 ft lbs.
25.
Re-install the clutch fork by simply sliding it back
over the ball stud; (make sure both sides of the
fork clip are around the pivot ball back side) it
should slide over with little effort. You will need to
make sure that the throw-out bearing does not
get knocked off of the clutch fork during this pro
cedure.
26.
Re-install the transmission on the bell housing be
sure the input shaft engages the clutch. Once the
input shaft of the transmission has engaged the
disc and is flush with the bell housing’s face,
replace the four bolts that hold the transmission
to the bell housing. Simply hand-tighten the bolts,
then torque the bolts to 28 – 38 ft lbs for Tremec
TKO/3550 & 4617 transmissions.
27.
Re-install the starter. Tighten bolts to 15-19 ft lbs.
28.
Re-install the drive shaft and grease u-joints with
grease gun.
29.
Re-install clutch slave actuating rod into clutch
fork. Shim the slave cylinder mounting rod end as
necessary for alignment and clearance between
the rod and the bell housing through hole.
30.
Clutch fork should have 1/8” - 1/4” of fore and aft
free play in it (Jam nuts on clutch slave should
not pre-load the clutch).
31.
Re-fill transmission fluid (3 quarts).
Internal Clutch Slave:
15.
If you have the internal slave cylinder, remove
hydraulic throw out bearing and remove the collar
from the input shaft. If it is stuck on the bearing
housing, you may need to use WD-40 and pry
bar to remove it.
16.
Remove six 1/2” bolts that hold the pressure
plate and remove it and the clutch disk.
17.
Remove six 19mm 12 point bolts from flywheel.
18.
Remove pilot bearing with puller.
Installation:
If you are installing a QuarterMaster aluminum clutch
assembly, confirm that the flywheel counter weight is
bolted to the back of the flywheel using Lock-tite blue
on the supplied bolts (failure to do so can cause
severe damage to engine and transmission).
19.
Install new pilot bearing, using a socket of the
same diameter and tap it in with a hammer until
seated.
20.
Confirm the engine separator plate/dust shield is
installed. It must be installed before the flywheel.
Make sure it is not bent and that it lays flat
against the block.
21.
Re-install the new flywheel onto the crankshaft by
lining up the six holes in the flywheel to the six
holes on the crank. One hole is offset from the
rest of the bolt pattern, so some rotation of the
flywheel may be needed in order to line up all
6 holes. Apply blue (medium strength) loctite
(thread lock) to the flywheel bolts and insert the
bolts through the flywheel into the crankshaft and
lightly tighten them down. Torque the bolts to
60-70 ft lbs, in a star pattern. Confirm that there
is clearance between the flywheel counter weight
bolts and the dust shield (rotate fly wheel).
22.
Place the clutch disc with the spring pack (taller
portion) facing rearward, under the cover and
pressure plate, then place the cover over the
clutch disc. Rotate cover until bolt holes line up
with the threaded hole in the flywheel.
