•
Detail Coring
a)
–2 to +7 scale; +7 has most extreme smoothing effect
b)
Helps mask appearance of noise in image
c)
Works with other Detail settings by giving camera a threshold for when to ignore
detail enhancement (to avoid creating edge enhancement around video noise
– because Detail Level is boosting both fine detail and video noise at the same
time)
d)
This setting is only noticeable if Detail Level is set at a high setting
•
Chroma Level
a)
–7 - +7 scale, +7 is most saturated color
b)
It’s OK to max out the saturation on HD if you’re looking for very vivid, bright
color; HD color doesn’t bleed like NTSC video
•
Chroma Phase
a)
Goes from –7 (more saturation in oranges and greens) to +7 (more saturation
in purples and magentas)
b)
Mild effect, similar to “TINT” knob control on NTSC TV
•
Color Temperature
a)
Much more extreme color shifts than Chroma Phase
b)
Allows you to bias white balance
c)
Ranges from –7 (orange bias) to + 7 (blue bias) – similar to shooting in daylight
with tungsten film or vice versa
d)
Only works if you’re not using WB preset positions on AWB camera switch.
•
Master Pedestal
a)
Contrast control; controls video black level
b)
Lower setting (up to –15) = deeper, richer black
c)
Higher setting (up to +15) = more washed out, milky black
d)
Be cautious about setting pedestal too low; you risk crushing blacks and losing
image detail in shadows. Crushed blacks can make a nice, sharp, snappy
image, but this is the sort of thing you can also do in post when you color
correct – so it’s better to preserve as much detail as possible at the shooting
stage.
e)
–4 to –6 is good range for regular shooting
f)
–8 - -10 is a starker hi con look, more like reversal film (and better to save for
post unless you’re absolutely sure about wanting this look)
•
A. Iris Level
a)
Lets you bias auto Iris reading to underexpose or overexpose (each setting =
1/3 of a stop)
b)
You probably won’t be using this, since you should be setting exposure
manually!
