Orion 52986 Instruction Manual Download Page 14

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be checked occasionally. With practice, collimating is relative-
ly easy to do and can be done in daylight.
If you purchased the Observer 90mm EQ Refractor, your tele-
scope’s lens optics were collimated at the factory and will not 
need further adjustment. Reflector telescopes, on the other 
hand, need occasional optical collimation as the mirrors can 
come out of alignment. 
It helps to perform the collimation procedure in a brightly lit 
room with the telescope pointed toward a bright surface, such 
as a light-colored wall. Placing a piece of white paper inside 
the telescope tube opposite the focuser (i.e., on the other side 
of the secondary mirror from the focuser) will also be helpful 
(

Figure 21

). You will need a Phillips screwdriver to adjust the 

mirrors. 
To check your telescope’s collimation, remove the eyepiece 
and look down the focuser. You should see the secondary 
mirror centered in the focuser, as well as the reflection of 
the primary mirror centered in the secondary mirror, and the 
reflection of the secondary mirror (and your eye) centered in 
the reflection of the primary mirror, as in 

Figure 22A

. Got all 

that? Review it again carefully, and compare what you see to 

Figure 22A

. If anything is off-center, proceed with the follow-

ing collimation procedure.

NOTE:

 Precise collimation is best achieved by using an 

optional collimating tool, such as a quick-collimation cap, a 
Cheshire eyepiece, or a laser collimator. Check our website 
for available 

collimating tools. 

Figures 22B through 22D

 

assume that you have an optional Cheshire eyepiece or col-
limation cap in the focuser.

Primary Mirror Center Mark

You may have noticed that your Observer 114mm or 134mm 
Reflector has a small ring (sticker) in the exact center of the 
primary mirror. This “center mark” allows you to achieve a very 
precise collimation of the primary mirror; you don’t have to 
guess where the center of the mirror is, which is important in 
the collimation process. 

NOTE: 

The center ring sticker should not be removed from 

the primary mirror. Because it lies directly in the shadow of 
the secondary mirror, its presence in no way adversely affects 
the optical performance of the telescope or the image qual-
ity. That might seem counter-intuitive, but it’s true! Leave it in 
place. 

Aligning the Secondary Mirror

Align the secondary mirror first. Look down the focuser at the 
secondary (diagonal) mirror. If the entire primary mirror reflec-
tion is not visible in the secondary mirror, as in 

Figure 22B

you will need to adjust the tilt of the secondary mirror. This is 
done by alternately loosening one of the three
secondary mirror alignment screws with a Phillips screwdriver 
then tightening the other two (

Figure 21

). The goal is to cen-

ter the primary mirror reflection in the secondary mirror, as 
in 

Figure 22C

. Don’t worry that the reflection of the second-

ary mirror (the smallest circle) is off-center. You will fix that 
in the next step. It will take some trial and error to determine 
which screws to loosen and tighten to move the reflection of 

the primary mirror to the center of the secondary mirror. But 
be patient and you’ll get it.

Aligning the Primary Mirror

The final adjustment is made to the primary mirror. It will need 
adjustment if, as in 

Figure 22C

, the reflection of the prima-

ry mirror is centered in the secondary mirror, but the small 
reflection of the secondary mirror is off-center. The tilt of the 
primary mirror is adjusted using the three pairs of collimation 
knobs and lock screws on the back end of the optical tube 
(

Figure 23

). Each pair consists of a collimation knob and a 

small Phillips head lock screw. 
First use the screwdriver to loosen the three lock screws a 
turn or so. Then tighten one of the collimation knobs about 
a quarter turn, then look down the focuser to see if the sec-
ondary mirror reflection has moved closer to the center of the 
primary. If it moved farther away then try loosening the same 
collimation knob a bit. Repeat this process on the other two 
sets of collimation screws, if necessary, adjusting them one 
way or the other and seeing if the secondary mirror reflection 
moves closer to the center of the primary mirror reflection. It 
will take a little trial and error to get a feel for how to tilt the mir-
ror in this way. When the center hole in your collimating tool is 
centered as much as possible on the reflection of the adhe-
sive dot on the primary mirror, your primary mirror is colli-
mated. The view through the collimation cap should resemble 

Figure 22D

. Then, very lightly tighten the three lock screws 

so that the primary mirror stays in that position. A simple star 
test will tell you whether the optics are accurately collimated. 

Star-Testing the Telescope

When it is dark, point the telescope at a bright star and accu-
rately center it in the eyepiece’s field of view. Slowly de-focus 
the image with the focusing knob. If the telescope is correct-
ly collimated, the expanding disk should be a perfect circle 
(

Figure 24

). If the image is unsymmetrical, the scope is out

of collimation. The dark shadow cast by the secondary mir-
ror should appear in the very center of the out-of-focus circle, 
like the hole in a donut. If the “hole" appears off-center, the 
telescope is out of collimation. If you try the star test and the 
bright star you have selected is not accurately centered in 
the eyepiece, the optics will always appear out of collimation, 
even though they may be perfectly aligned. It is critical to keep 
the star centered, so over time you will need to make slight 
corrections to the telescope’s position in order to account for 
the sky’s apparent motion.

VII. Telescope Care and 

Maintenance

If you give your telescope reasonable care, it will last a life-
time. Store it in a clean, dry, dust free place, safe from rapid 
changes in temperature and humidity. Do not store the tele-
scope outdoors, although storage in a garage or shed is OK. 
Small components like eyepieces and other accessories 
should be kept in a protective box or storage case. Keep the 
caps on the front of the telescope and on the focuser draw-
tube when not in use. 

Summary of Contents for 52986

Page 1: ...ion or any of its contents may be reproduced copied modified or adapted without the prior written consent of Orion Telescopes Binoculars A N E M P L O Y E E O W N E D C O M P A N Y 52988 52986 52987 C...

Page 2: ...lternatively you could thread on the shaft first and then slide the counterweight onto it after removing the hex head bolt and washer from the bottom end of the shaft 5 Attach the slow motion cables J...

Page 3: ...3 Figure 1 A Parts included with the Orion Observer EQ telescopes B Optical tube assemblies of the Observer EQ telescopes H P I E F K L A B C G J M D Q O N O A B...

Page 4: ...he telescope For larger telescope move ment release the RA and Dec axis lock knobs Figure 16 and move the telescope tube by hand to the approximate location then retighten the lock knobs and make fine...

Page 5: ...adjustments to the alignment thumbscrews until the image in both the finder scope and the telescope s eye piece is exactly centered When it is no further adjustment of the finder scope will be needed...

Page 6: ...ng the shaft until it exactly counterbalances the telescope That s the point at which the shaft remains horizontal even when you let go of the telescope with both hands 3 Retighten the counterweight l...

Page 7: ...ccomplished by slowly rotating the telescope on its right ascension R A axis using only the R A slow motion cable But first the R A axis of the mount must be aligned with the Earth s rotational polar...

Page 8: ...ot make any further adjustments to the azimuth or the latitude of the mount nor should you move the tripod Doing so will ruin the polar alignment The telescope should be moved only about its R A and D...

Page 9: ...object through the telescope you ll see it drift slowly across the field of view To keep it in the field assuming the equatorial mount is polar aligned just turn the R A Figure 16 The R A and Dec loc...

Page 10: ...in the Northern Hemisphere The Dec setting circle is denoted in degrees with each main mark representing 10 increments 1 10 2 20 etc Values of Dec coordinates range from 90 to 90 The 0 mark indi cates...

Page 11: ...ng circles are not accurate enough to put an object dead center in the telescope s eyepiece but they should place the object somewhere within or near the field of view of the finder scope assuming the...

Page 12: ...r that mat ter Your eyes take about 30 minutes to reach perhaps 80 of their full dark adapted sensitivity As your eyes become dark adapted more stars will glimmer into view and you ll be able to see f...

Page 13: ...nt size optional higher power eyepieces or a Barlow lens are recommended and often needed for detailed obser vations B The Sun You can change your nighttime telescope into a daytime Sun viewer by inst...

Page 14: ...and error to determine which screws to loosen and tighten to move the reflection of the primary mirror to the center of the secondary mirror But be patient and you ll get it Aligning the Primary Mirr...

Page 15: ...me with your telescope Motor Drive A motor drive which attaches to the right ascension axis of an equatorial telescope mount enables your telescope to track the motion of stars and other celestial obj...

Page 16: ...German equatorial Tripod Aluminum Total instrument weight 16 lbs 1 5 oz Observer 134mm EQ Reflector Primary mirror diameter 134mm 5 3 Primary mirror coating Aluminum with silicon dioxide SiO2 overcoat...

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