Construction Manual
www.oldschoolmodels.com
Page 13
Step 106 - Fuselage Assembly (level stab)
To attach the stab,
first bolt the wing
in place. Then lay
the stab on the
stab support. Look at the fuselage straight on, from the nose (or
tail) and make sure that the stab is level with the wings. If not,
remove the stab and gently sand the stab supports a little at time.
Check the stab and re-sand the supports if needed.
Step 107 - Fuselage Assembly (attach stab)
Once leveled, ensure that the
stab is aligned with the wing
by measuring the distance
from the left wing tip to the
left tip of the stab. Compare
this to the distance between
the right wing and stab tip.
Slide the stab a bit until these
two measurements are equal.
Make a couple of marks where
the stab touches the fuselage so you can place it back in the same
position.
Remove the stab, apply glue on the stab supports and the rear
face of the last fuselage cross brace, then attach the stab in place.
Step 108 - Fuselage Assembly (elevator hinging)
The elevator will be a captive piece once the vertical fin is installed
in the next step, now is the time to make the necessary slots/holes
needed to hinge the elevator to the stab. We recommend 4 hinges,
2 per side. DO NOT GLUE THE HINGES IN AT THIS POINT. Once
hinged, you might also want to cover the elevator and stab with
the covering material of your choice. It’s certainly not mandatory,
but it is easier to cover before it is held captive to the fuselage.
Step 109 - Fuselage Assembly (attach vertical fin)
Align and glue the vertical fin in place,
making sure to also glue on the trailing
edge where it meets the back of the
fuselage. Be careful not to get any glue
on the elevator joiner. Use the large
triangle from sheet LP4 to insure the fin is
a perfect 90° to the stab.
Step 110 - Fuselage Assembly (front hatch)
To complete the fuselage, you’ll need to assemble the hatch using
the H1 or H1A piece you chose, as well as the two H3 pieces from
sheet LP1.
First, test fit the hatch (H1 or
H1A) in place on the fuselage
noting the engraved circle
should be on the right side
of the fuselage. You’ll notice
that the back end of the hatch
needs to be sanded slightly
to match the angle of H5.
Carefully sand this to match, test fitting along the way.
When satisfied with the fit, place the hatch over a small piece of
wax paper, making sure that is upside down. Glue one H3 in each
of the two slots on the rear of the hatch, making sure that the H3
pieces point towards the rear of the hatch as shown.
Test fit the hatch in place and gently sand the H3 pieces if necessary
to give a solid, slop-free hold.
If you chose to use magnets, glue those in place now. If you chose
screws, fit the hatch in place, then using the two pre-cut holes in
the front of the hatch as a guide, drill through the H2A pieces with
a 1/16” bit, and harden the wood with a bit of thin CA. Use two
supplied 2-56 x 3/4” self tapping screws.
Step 111 - Optional wing struts
The full-scale Curtiss
Robin featured wing
struts as necessary
structural pieces. In
the Robinhood 25,
they are optional.
If you would like to
incorporate them, they are made from the remaining two lengths
of 3/16” x 3/8”x 25” basswood. On the prototype model, the front
struts were cut to 14” long and the rear struts to 13.5”. Measure,
cut and trim as necessary to fit your model.
The included flexible plastic straps should be attached to both
ends of each strut so that half of each strap extends past the end
of the strut. Note that the strap that attaches to the wing is fixed to
the top face of the strut, while the fuselage strap is attached to the
bottom face. Mark the position of each mounting hole, drill with a
1/16” bit, and harden the wood with a bit of thin CA.
Attach the straps using the supplied 2-56 x 3/4” self tapping
screws. Grind off the excess of the screw so it’s flush with the strut
for a clean look - as shown here:
There are already 4-40 t-nuts in position on the underside of the
wing from back in Step 4. Using the included 4-40 x 3/4” bolts,
attach the top of the struts to these mounting points. (The holes in
the top straps will need to be drilled using a 1/8” bit so the 4-40
bolts can pass through.)
The bottom of the struts attach to the tabs on LG3 and LG6. You’ll
need to drill 1/16” holes, then harden the wood with a bit of thin
CA and attach them with the supplied 2-56 x 3/4” self tapping
screws.
Also, take a bit of time to round the edges of the struts to not only
make them look better, but make them more aerodynamic.
A
A
B
B
4-40 bolt
wing strut
GRIND screw
flush with strut
GRIND screw
flush with strut
wing strut
FUSELAGE
BOTTOM OF WING
2-56 x 3/4”
self tapping screw
2-56 x 3/4”
self tapping screwS
PLASTIC STRAP
PLASTIC
STRAP
A
A
4-40 bolt
wing strut
GRIND screw
flush with strut
GRIND screw
flush with strut
wing strut
FUSELAGE
BOTTOM OF WING
2-56 x 3/4”
self tapping screw
2-56 x 3/4”
self tapping screwS
PLASTIC STRAP
PLASTIC
STRAP
