Construction Manual
www.oldschoolmodels.com
Page 17
Optional canopy
Included is a canopy and
though it's certainly up to you
if you choose to use it, the
canopy is just a defining part
of the Lark's' outline, so why
not use it?
The following steps will
describe how to properly prepare and attach it.
• Trim along it’s flat edge. You’ll want to trim away the excess
plastic and leave a smooth lip, roughly 3/16” wide around the
it’s perimeter.
• Place it on the fuselage and make sure it's lays flat on the top of
the sheeting. Not all canopies are exactly identical, so a bit of
trial and error is needed to get a good fit.
• If you’re going to add a pilot figure (not included), now is the
time to test-fit, then glue it in place.
• Give the canopy a quick wash in warm, soapy water.
• If you're going to tint or paint the canopy, do this on the inside
now and allow it to try.
• Use a bit of canopy glue to attach the canopy. So it doesn't
move while the glue cures, hold it in place with a bit of low-tack
masking tape.
This completes the assembly of the Lark. Now you’ll need to
adjust the control throws and check for balance.
Recommended C.G. setting:
An important part of preparing the aircraft for flight is properly
balancing the model. This is especially important because of the
various motor/battery combinations that can be used.
CAUTION! DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP!
The recommended Center of Gravity (CG) range for the Lark is 3.1"
from the leading edge of the wing, and you’ll see this marked on
the fuselage plan with this symbol.
If necessary, move the battery, receiver,
and/or add weight to either the nose
or the tail until the correct balance is
achieved. Stick-on weights are available
at your local hobby store and work well
for this purpose.
We recommend balancing it at the
forward point for the first flights, then moving it backward if you'd
like it to be a little more maneuverable.
Recommended Control Throws:
The amount of control throw should be adjusted as closely as
possible using mechanical means, rather than making large
changes electronically at the radio.
By moving the position of the clevis at the control horn toward
the outermost hole, you will decrease the amount of control throw
of the control surface. Moving it toward the control surface will
increase the amount of throw. Moving the pushrod wire at the
servo arm will have the opposite effect: Moving it closer to center
will decrease throw, and away from center will increase throw. Work
with a combination of the two to achieve something relatively
close to these throws that are good for everyday sport flying. If
competing in pattern, you'll probably want to dial these down a bit
to give a smoother appearance to your maneuvers.
Aileron 3/8” up/down (25% expo)
Elevator 1/4” up/down (20% expo)
Rudder .75” left/right (15% expo)
(Expert tip: Once the control throws have been set, cut a few
pieces of medium silicone fuel tubing (or heat shrink tubing) to
go around each of the clevises. This will keep them from opening
during flight.)
Preflight:
Charge both the transmitter and receiver pack for your airplane.
Use the recommended charger supplied with your particular radio
system, following the instructions provided with the radio. In most
cases, the radio should be charged the night before going out
flying.
Check the radio installation and make sure all the control
surfaces are moving correctly (i.e. the correct direction and with
the recommended throws). Test run the engine and make sure it
transitions smoothly from idle to full throttle and back. Also ensure
the engine is tuned according to the manufacturer’s instructions,
and it will run consistently and constantly at full throttle when
adjusted.
Check all the control horns, servo horns and clevises to make
sure they are secure and in good condition. Replace any items
that would be considered questionable. Failure of any of these
components in flight would mean the loss of your aircraft.
Range check your radio before flying
Before each flying session, range check your radio. This is
accomplished by turning on your transmitter with the antenna
collapsed. Turn on the radio in your airplane, but do not attach the
arming switch.
With your airplane on the ground, you should be able to walk 30
paces away from your airplane and still have complete control of
all functions.
If not, don’t attempt to fly! Have your radio equipment checked
out by the manufacturer.
Warranty Information
Old School Model Works
guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both
material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover
any parts damage by use or modification. In no case shall
Old School Model
Works’
liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further,
Old School
Model Works
reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that
Old School Model Works
has no control over the final assembly or
material used for the final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for
any damage of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the product,
the user accepts all resulting liability.
Limit of Liability
In the use of this product, our only obligation shall be to replace such quantity
of the product proven to be defective. The user shall determine the suitability
of the product for his or her intended use and shall assume all risk and liability in
connection therewith.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this
product, the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in new and un-opened
condition.
As of this printing, you are required to register with the FAA if you own this product.
For up-to-date information on how to register with the FAA, visit
https://registermyuas.faa.gov .
For additional assistance on regulations and guidance of UAS usage, visit
http://www.knowbeforeyoufly.org .