Page 16
www.oldschoolmodels.com
Construction Manual
servos are mounted to thicken the mounting surface for the servo's
screws. If using standard size servos for the elevator and rudder, you
may need to stack the TR3's two-high so the servos will clear things that
might interfere with the servo arms.
Take a bit of time to plan things out, including how you'll run the
throttle and nose gear steering pushrods.
When mounting the servos to each of the SH's you'll need to cut
eight 3/4" lengths of the 1/4" square basswood scrap. Make four
thicker mounting posts by laminating two pieces together then
sand the ends flat.
Position your aileron
servo on the inside of
the aileron hatch so the
servo arm output shaft is
centered in the opening.
On the inside of each
aileron hatch, glue one
post on each side of the
servo as shown in the photo.
Note that the left hatch is a mirror
image of the right hatch.
Now fit the servo hatches into
position on the bottom of the wing.
Using the pre-cut holes as a guide,
drill four 1/16” mounting holes into
the basswood mounting posts you
just installed. Harden the wood with
a bit of thin CA and you can use the
supplied 2-56 x 3/4” self tapping screws to secure the hatches in
place.
Finish the layout of your radio gear by adding the receiver, flight
pack battery and the switch. We mounted the receiver to the
tray by using a bit of self-adhesive hook-and-loop (not included).
The radio's switch should be mounted to the opposite side
of the muffler (to help keep the goop out of it). Or, for an even
cleaner installation, it could be installed inside the tank/battery
compartment - hidden under the hatch - VERY NICE!
Covering
Now it is time to cover the Lark. Remove the powerplant, main
gear, nosewheel assembly, pushrods, and any other components
that would get in the way of applying the covering.
Double check that all surfaces are smooth and ready to cover. Sand
as necessary, then cover the entire airframe with the covering/finish
of your choice.
Note that if you’re powering with an electric motor, you’ll need
to make a hole for the cooling air to escape the bottom of the
fuselage, near the rear.
When the covering is complete, re-attach all the components you
removed earlier in this step.
Logos, numbers, etc.
If you want to use graphics similar to the
ones we used, Old School Model Works
has teamed up with Callie Graphics as a
supplier for pre-cut vinyl. They are a very
well known provider of custom graphics for
R/C models.
We have supplied them with the artwork
needed to cut the correct size logos. You can order straight from
them, choosing the colors that work for you.
Contact Callie Graphics at this link: https://callie-graphics.com or scan
the QR code.
Note that Callie Graphics is not affiliated with Old School Model
Works, nor does Old School Model Works generate any income
from this partnership.
Attach the Control Surfaces
Now is the time to attach all the control surfaces to the airframe, by
gluing the hinges in position with thin C/A. We've noted suggested
hinge locations for each of the control surfaces on the plans.
When using the CA hinges, first push a
pin through on side, at the center of the
hinge as shown here. This will keep the
hinge centered as it's pushed into the
surfaces. When you've got all the hinges
for a surface in place, then remove the
pins and glue the hinges.
Make sure that you attach the elevator
first, and make sure you cut away some
clearance to allow the elevator joiner to rotate freely and not
interfere with the fuselage.
When the elevator's in place, then attach the rudder.
And don't forget the ailerons.
Attach wheels
Use the included 5/32” i.d. wheel collars to hold each wheel (not
included) on the axles. For a maintenance free installation, file
a small flat on the axle where the set screw of the wheel collar
touches. Also use a touch of thread-locking compound to keep the
screw from loosening over time.