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MAINTENANCE AND CLEANING
Proper care and maintenance will improve your boat’s appearance and longevity. Clean
and inspect the boat after each use. We recommend you coat your boat with 303 Protectant
(available through NRS or your local dealer) every few months during the season and before
long-term storage to protect against UV damage and degradation.
You should take care to keep moisture from getting inside the air chambers. Water can enter
the chambers during in-the-field repairs or if the valves are left open during wet weather. If you
find that moisture and mildew have accumulated in your boat’s air chambers, the chambers
must be aired out. Remove the valve of the affected chamber. Pour out any liquid water, then
run the hose of an electric air pump or vacuum exhaust through the valve hole. Allow dry air to
circulate into the chamber and out the valve hole until all the moisture is gone.
PVC MATERIAL REPAIR
The side tubes, floor and floor insert have a PVC outer coating. Use only adhesives and
solvents recommended for use with PVC. Repair adhesives and cleaners are toxic. When
repairing your boat, always work in a well-ventilated area and use a good respirator if
possible. Always use proper chemical protection for your skin and eyes.
You will need the patch material and adhesive (provided in the repair kit), medium-grit wet/dry
sand paper and a solvent to clean off any oils or contaminants that can interfere with the glue
bond. An aggressive solvent, like methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) or acetone, works best. However,
they are toxic, flammable and difficult to carry with you on the water. A satisfactory field
alternative is small individually wrapped alcohol wipes.
Measure and cut a patch to cover the area that requires repair. The patch should be bigger
than the repair area, extending an extra 2” or so past the edge of the tear or abrasion. Round
off the corners of the patch. Lay the patch over the area to be repaired, and trace the outline
onto the boat material. Use the sandpaper to lightly buff the area inside the traced outline and
on the backside of the patch. Only buff off the shiny finish of the material; do not sand down
to the point where the internal fabric threads are exposed. Use a solvent to rid the surfaces of
any grease or oils and to prep the surfaces for best glue adhesion.
Do the repair out of direct sunlight, if possible. Avoid doing repairs when the humidity is over
70%. Apply a thin, even coat of adhesive to both the back of the patch and the repair area on
the boat. Wait 3 to 5 minutes to allow solvent vapors to evaporate, then apply another thin
coat of adhesive. Wait an additional 3 to 5 minutes before bonding. Touch the glued surface
with your knuckle to ensure the surface is tacky, but not wet. Do not touch with your fingertips;
this will leave oils that interfere with the glue bond. If the surface is no longer tacky, apply
another thin coat of the adhesive.
Carefully align the patch and press both surfaces together, avoiding trapping air under it.
Remember, this is a contact adhesive; once the two surfaces touch you will not be able to
rearrange them. Apply pressure to the entire glued surface using a narrow roller wheel or
similar device. Roll over the patch in multiple directions, working from the inside to the outside
of the patch. This step is important because it really helps the two pieces of material bond. If
you have a more aggressive solvent like MEK, you can dampen a lint-free towel and use it to
wipe off excess glue around the patch.
Allow the repair to cure for as long as possible. In an emergency, you could inflate the boat
after only an hour or so, but this will put stress on the patch, possibly requiring the repair to be
re-done later. If you must inflate the raft quickly after the repair, try to limit the air pressure in
the patched chamber. Ideally, you should allow the glue to cure for 8-12 hours; full cure can
take up to 24 hours, depending on conditions.
