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16
Like any other aircraft, this model has static limits! Steep dives and silly, imprudent manoeuvres may cause structural
failure and the loss of the model. Please note: damage caused by incompetent flying is obvious to us, and we are not
prepared to replace components damaged in this way. It is always best to fly gently at first, and to work gradually towards
the model’s limits. The aircraft is designed to cope with our ‘Tuning’ (upgrade) power system, but is only capable of
withstanding the flight loads if it is built exactly as specified, and is in perfect structural order (i.e. not damaged). Further
upgrade measures are possible, but should only be attempted if you have plenty of experience in this field, as additional
structural reinforcements will be required.
Important note
This model is not made of styrofoam™, and it is not possible to glue the material using white glue, polyurethane or epoxy;
these adhesives only produce a superficial bond which gives way when stressed. Use medium-viscosity cyano-acrylate
glue exclusively, preferably our Zacki-ELAPOR®, # 59 2727 - the cyano glue optimised specifically for ELAPOR® particle
foam.
If you use Zacki-ELAPOR® you will find that you do not need cyano ‘kicker’ or activator for most joints. However, if you
wish to use a different adhesive, and are therefore obliged to use kicker / activator spray, we recommend that you apply
the material in the open air as it can be injurious to health.
1. Before assembling the model
Please check the contents of your kit before you start working on
it.
You will find
Figs. 1 + 2
and the Parts List helpful here.
Note:
the GRP spar caps and fuselage longerons
11.1 - 11.9
are
supplied in the kit in the form of a continuous strip
11
(8.5 m
long), which has to be cut to length: take the dimensions of each
strip directly from the component, and cut them to length using
side-cutters immediately before gluing them in place. The
approximate lengths are stated in the Parts List.
2. Preparing the fuselage
Lay the right-hand fuselage shell
4
down flat on the workbench
(table). Cut the longeron
11.5
to length and glue it in place as
shown, applying cyano along its whole length. Wipe off excess
adhesive immediately using a cloth.
Fig. 03
Repeat this procedure with the left-hand fuselage shell
3
.
Caution:
It is absolutely essential that the fuselage shells are straight
when you install the GRP longerons. If you make a mistake at
this point, it will be impossible to correct it later!
3. Preparing the wing retainer plate 40
The first step here is to solder two servo leads, # 8 5133, to the
M6 MULTIPLEX high-current plug, # 8 5213, as shown in
Fig. 04
.
Carefully separate the servo ribbon cable into its individual
colours using a pair of side-cutters. Strip a little insulation from
the wire ends, and tin (apply solder to) the bare conductors. Tin
the individual contacts of the M6 plug. Slip a piece of heat-shrink
sleeve over each wire, and solder the wire ends to the contacts
in the arrangement shown in
Fig. 4
. Slip the sleeves over the
soldered joints and shrink them in place using a heat-gun or
similar.
Note that the M6 plug and socket should be fitted together before
you carry out the soldering - this ensures that the contacts take
up their optimum position.
Tin the contacts of the plug, solder the wires to the contacts, and
shrink the sleeves over the soldered joints. Position the plug
carefully and glue it in place. Push the nuts
32
into the wing
retainer plate
40
until they snap into place.
The standard wire colours of UNI servo leads:
red
red
+
black
brown
-
yellow
orange
4. Fitting out the fuselage
Now we turn to the right-hand fuselage shell
4
. First cut the inner
fuselage longeron
11.8
to length, and glue it in place using cyano.
The next step is to glue the canopy latches
22
in place, taking
care to position them accurately. Glue the prepared wing retainer
plate
40
in place with the projecting spigots flush at the top.
Deploy the leads as shown, and tape them to the fuselage sides.
Repeat this procedure with the left-hand fuselage shell
3
- with
the exception of the wing retainer plate
40. Fig. 05
5. Preparing the servo installation in the fuselage
The Blizzard features a V-tail which can be actuated using a
single servo (‘elevator’ function only; no rudder) or two servos. In
the former case there is no need to cut away additional material,
as shown in
Fig. 06
. If you wish to use both functions of the V-tail
(rudder and elevator), a second servo is required. In this case
you have to open up the additional servo well using a balsa
knife.
Fig. 06
The servo cases can now be sealed with adhesive tape, and
glued in their recesses as shown in
Fig. 07
. Before you do this,
use side-cutters to remove the superfluous arms from the servo
output levers, and snip off the servo leads close to the plugs.
Lengthen the cables by soldering 300 mm extension leads to
them; insulate each soldered joint with a separate heat-shrink
sleeve.
6. Completing the fuselage
Check that the fuselage shells fit together accurately, then glue
them together using cyano.
Fig. 08
7. Installing the nose fairing / motor bulkhead
Sand off the moulding pimples from the area of the fuselage
where the nose fairing / motor bulkhead
13
will fit. Apply cyano to
the mating surfaces, and glue the fairing / motor bulkhead
13
in
place, taking care to position it accurately. Press the fuselage
against the fairing
13
from the inside while the glue is setting.
Fig. 09
8. Installing the rear fuselage fairing
Here again sand off the pimples at the joint areas. Apply cyano to
the mating surfaces, position the fuselage fairing
14
carefully,
and hold it firmly in place until the adhesive hardens.
Fig. 10
9. Preparing the V-tail panels 7 + 8
Cut a slot about 1 mm wide at the end of each V-tail panel to
release the control surfaces, but take great care not to cut right
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