To perform this mod, you will need:
Phillips screwdriver
Hex wrenches (sizes listed in disassembly instructions)
Razor-blade or trace-cutting device
At least 32” of 24 gauge wire. (Four 8" lengths of different colored wires recommended)
Soldering iron + solder
Solder-wick or Pump to remove solder
Small DPDT switch (Available from Moog for $14.76. Digikey part # EG2403-ND)
Hand drill or drill press with .255” bit
A multimeter that can read resistance
Disassembly
1. Remove all the knobs on the front panel. They will pull off by hand with the exception of the
Drive/Output knobs. For these knobs, you will need to loosen the set screw with a small
flathead screwdriver or a 1/16 in (1.58 mm) or Allen wrench (earlier models).
2. Remove the Metal Backplate and four back screws.
3. Remove the eight black plastic jack nuts with a 15 mm hex wrench.
4. Remove the front panel hardware, nuts and washers, w/ ½ in hex wrench.
5. Undo the stomp-switch/jack cables from the main PCB and remove the PCBs carefully. There
are lock-washers on the pots. Make sure they don't spill off the unit! You may have to wiggle it
to get the pots to come out.
Note: When you handle the 104-Z main PCB, make sure the smaller daughterboard PCB makes a firm
connection with the larger board. This smaller board contains most of the delay circuitry and is
essential to 104 Operation.
Modding the Main PCB
1. Set the Main PCB on a well-lit surface and clip D1 at the cathode end, leaving enough wire to
solder to. Then pull this component out from the anode end, remove solder/wire from both
diode holes and re-insert diode on the other side of the PCB in the same hole (anode end in
anode hole). The cathode side should be disconnected from circuit.
