Model Shipways Newsboy Instruction Manual Download Page 15

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yard trusses. And finally, add the ship’s bell on
the foremast. Figure F-4 illustrates some
assembled mast details.

Spanker and Gaff Topsail Mast Hoops

These need to be put on the mainmast before
installing the masts if you elect to include
them. Refer to Stage H for a discussion on
the hoops.

3. Shaping & Detailing the Spars

Yards

Shape the yards in the same manner as the
masts. The maximum diameter of each yard is
at its center. Taper the yards outward from
each center.

Yard Details

- You need to detail the yards

as much as possible before placing them on
the masts. Cut a shoulder on each end of
the yards which is a stop for lifts and
footropes. Also, drill holes (sheaves on real
ship) in the ends of the yards for the sheets
from the sail above.
Jackstays consists of a series of eyebolts thru
which a rod is passed. The rod and eyebolts
are used for attaching the head of the sail
and the footrope stirrups. Note that the eye-
bolts are on top of the yard but slightly
forward of the yards centerline. Add all the
parrel and truss fittings, and bands for the
blocks near the center of the yards.
Figure F-5 illustrates a typical yard.

Boom & Gaffs

The main boom and gaff also taper, but the
maximum diameter of each spar should be
about one-third from its fore end. Unlike the
yards, there is no shoulder at the outer end of
these spars. However, there is a chock in each
side of the spar to act as a rigging stop. Add all
the fittings like the boom sheet band and cleats.
The boom and gaffs require that jaws be
added to their throats for joining to the masts.
The jaws are laser-cut wood parts for this kit.
The fore end of the gaff jaws are curved
upward as shown on the plan. You can cut a
slit in the laser-cut jaws, bend and glue to
form the curve or omit this detail (Figure F-6).

Bowsprit, Jibboom, & Dolphin Striker

The bowsprit is round inboard, changing to
square, round again, and back to square at the
outer end. To save adding wood to create the
squares like you did with mast heels, it would
be easier to use the square strip provided in
the kit instead of the dowel. Tenons are
required on each end of the bowsprit to fit the
bowsprit cap and the bowsprit bitt on deck.
The jibboom should be straight from the aft
end to the bowsprit cap, then tapered for-
ward. On the inboard end, cut the tenon to
fit into the block at the bow. At the outer end
cut the shoulders and add the rigging bands.
Drill the holes for stays to pass thru.
The Dolphin Striker is a simple tapered
round spar. Add the fitting at the top and bot-
tom of the spar. The cleats at the bottom can

be a bent wire with flattened ends, a detail of
this is shown on Plan Sheet 3.

Assembly and Installation

- Glue the

bowsprit cap (laser-cut part) onto the
bowsprit. You will need to shape the holes a
bit for both the bowsprit and jibboom since
the cap is at a slight angle to the spars. Insert
the jibboom, but don’t glue it to the cap. Fit
the dolphin striker (proper name martingale)
to the bowsprit cap. Add the bees for the stays.
Before going any further, fit the assembly to
the hull to make sure the jibboom and
bowsprit tenons fit correctly into the jibboom
block and bowsprit bitt. Then you can com-
plete the fittings for the assembly (Figure F-7).

4. Installing the Mast Assemblies

It is recommended that before installing
masts, secure the yards, boom and gaff to the

masts. Temporarily hang them with some line
so they don’t flop all around. Install the mast
assemblies in the holes drilled into the deck.
Check the alignment and shim if necessary,
then add the mast coats. The mast coats are
actually canvas covers over the wedges on a
real ship holding the masts in place. For the
model, mast coat halves are laser-cut parts.
Add these at the deck around the masts.

FIG. F-4 MAST DETAILS

FIG. F-5 TYPICAL YARD

MAST HEADS

YARD WITH PARREL

YARD WITH TRUSS

CAP

BAND

CHEEKS

BOLSTER

TRESTLE TREE

CROSS

TREE