Model Shipways Newsboy Instruction Manual Download Page 14

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Most references call a mast a mast, and any-
thing else such as a boom, yard, gaff, and
bowsprit a spar. Let’s stick with that definition.
The mast and spar dowels included in the kit
are round. True to scale, masts and spars must
be tapered for their full length.

1. Shaping the Masts & Spars

Tapering the Masts and Spars

The correct shape of the masts and spars are
shown on the plans. Each of the mast and
spars are generally tapered in a slight
(parabolic) curve. However, for models, it
may be difficult to accomplish a parabolic
shape. A straight line taper should be suffi-
cient. The best way to taper masts and spars
from dowels is to cut the taper into squares,
then octagons, and finish by sanding into a
round shape (Figure F-1).
Note that the fore topgallant mast and the
main topmast have rigging stops where stays
and lifts secure. A rigging stop is simply a
shoulder formed by the reduction of the mast
diameter going above. The shoulder prevents
the lines from sliding down the mast. For the
model, to actually cut the shoulders could
weaken the mast and it could break. Instead,
as an option, wrap the mast with thread or
paper strip and glue to form a fake shoulder
(Figure F-2).

Shaping the Mastheads & Heels

After tapering, the next areas of the masts to
be shaped are the mastheads and heels where
the masts join together at the doublings (see
plans for location).
The fore and main lower mast heads and the
fore topmast head is square with chamfered
edges, and has a square tenon at the top for
fitting the mast caps. Also, there is a flat side
on the lower masts where the trestletree
cheeks fit.
The heel of the fore and main topmast and
the fore topgallant mast is square. A fid is
located in each topmast and topgallant mast
heel to prevent them from falling through the
holes formed by the trestletrees. For this par-
ticular ship the square heel is offset forward to
provide more space for the shrouds passing
between the two masts.
Figure F-3 illustrates the shaping of the mast-
heads, heels and the fid. Since you are dealing
with wood dowels, the sketch also shows how
to build the square ends by adding wood to
the cut-end. Adding wood is necessary because
the dimension across the flats of the square
must be the same as the dowel diameter. Con-
sequently, the diagonal of the square is greater
than the dowel diameter. This method can be
used for masts heels with, or without an offset
as we have with

Newsboy

. It’s just a matter of

cutting the initial square in an offset position
or centered and adding sufficient wood so the
proper detail can be carved.

2. Assembling the Masts

The mast caps are laser-cut parts. Add all
bands and fittings to the caps before assem-
bling the masts, or at least before you install
the assemblies into the holes in the deck.
Make the trestletrees and cross-trees from
stripwood and cut the cheeks under the
trestletrees from the sheet wood in the kit. Fit
the topmast and topgallant masts in the mast
caps, then fit the assembly to the mast below.
Make sure the masts at the doublings are
aligned per the plan.

Mast Details

- Before painting and staining

the masts there are a few details to add. Drill
the holes representing sheaves thru the masts
for yard halyards. The mainmast has a rest for
the boom. This is a casting provided in the
kit. Slide and glue the casting onto the mast.
You may need to file out the hole for a proper
fit. Also, the chocks are a bit long so should

be filed down somewhat. Add the ball on top
of the fore topgallant and main topmast. Add
the fittings for the futtock bands and lower

STAGE F:

MAST & SPAR CONSTRUCTION

FIG. F-1 TAPERING DOWELS

FIG. F-3 SHAPING MASTHEADS & HEELS

FIG. F-2

TOPMAST RIGGING STOPS

MAST

MASTHEAD

SPAR DIAMETER BUILD-UP

TOPMAST & TOPGALLANT HEEL

TAPER