background image

FIG. 2-8 SCUPPERS

INNER BLACK STRAKE

LAYER

CUT SCUPPERS THROUGH

BOTH LAYERS

OUTER BLACK STRAKE

LAYER

16

Since the wale is thicker than the general
hull planking, taper the forward end of
the walnut layer for about 2 inches so it
fits into the stem rabbet (

Figure 2-7

). 

Installing the black strake:

The black

strake sits on top of the wale, and both
the basswood and walnut planks will butt
into the fashion piece at the stern. Its top
edge will form the sill of the gunports.
The black strake will require cutting to
shape and steam bending. 
Use 3/64" x 3/16" basswood for the first
layer. The black strake will be covered
later with 3/64" x 3/16" walnut. 
Like the wale, taper the forward end for
about 2 inches so it fits into the stem 
rabbet.
Before installing the black strake, cut the
half round scuppers in the lower edge
(

Figure 2-8

). This will require cuts in both

layers. At the same time, if there are any
fillers in way of the scuppers between
bulkheads, cut these out also — it’s easier
now than later. The bottom of the
inboard hole for the scuppers is in line
with the top of the waterway.
After the walnut layer is added, sand the
outboard top edge of the black strake to
form a half-round molding. This saves
adding a separate molding (

Figure 2-9

).

Planking above the black strake:

The

sheer strake at the very top of the bulwark
forms the top of the gunports. It extends
the full length of the hull.
Use 3/64" x 3/32" basswood for the first
layer, to be covered by 3/64" x 3/32" walnut.
From the sheer strake down to the black
strake, between the gunports, fit three
equal width 3/64" thick basswood planks
to be covered later with 0.020" thick wal-
nut. These planks will require some taper-
ing, and spiling forward.
Under the cabin top rail there is a sheer
strake similar to the sheer strake in way 
of gunports. 

Note:

The first three strakes of planks above

the black strake butt into the curved por-
tion of the fashion piece. Above these, the
planks butt into the wing of the transom.

Planking below the wale:

Use one layer

of 3/64" basswood. You will cover the
inner layer with 0.020" thick walnut strips.
If you don’t care how the inner layer
looks, simply forget the discussion below
and plank it anyway you like. Apply the
process only to the final walnut layer.
However, it is highly suggested that you
follow the rules on both layers. You will
get to practice on the first layer, then real-
ly do a bang-up job on the final layer.
Planking from the bottom of the wale to
the keel requires tapering fore and aft.
Consequently, the hull below the wale is
divided into Belts A through C.

FIG. 2-9 MOLDING AT TOP OF BLACK STRAKE

ROUND EDGE TO FORM MOLDING

BLACK STRAKE

WALE

FIG. 2-10 FITTING PLANKS

BUTTS SELECT-

ED MARK WITH

PENCIL (NOTE

STAGGER)

PENCIL MARK LOCATING 

BULKHEAD FOR INSTALLING

TREENAILS OR PINS IF NOT

INSTALLED NOW

PLANK CUT TO SHAPE & LENGTH

(MAKE 2, ONE FOR OTHER

SIDE OF HULL)

BULKHEAD

PENCIL

MARKS

LOCATING

PLANKS

FIG. 2-11 PLANKING AT STERN

COUNTER

BULKHEAD “R”

NOT SO BAD

BELOW BULKHEAD “R”

SHARP BEND OVER

BULKHEAD “R”

R

Q

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Summary of Contents for ARMED VIRGINIA SLOOP 1768 2160

Page 1: ...Inc Hollywood FL http www modelexpo online com PREPARED BY BEN LANKFORD Technical Characteristics SCALE 1 4 1 0 1 48 OVERALL LENGTH 31 787 mm OVERALL HEIGHT FROM KEEL 22 559 mm OVERALL WIDTH ACROSS L...

Page 2: ...nterests at sea Often the private sector was more innovative as the quest for quick profits spurred the produc tion and refinement of fast sailing ships Jamaica had become rapidly established as a shi...

Page 3: ...bin Planking 18 11 Installing the Main and Quarter Deck and Cabin Rails 18 Stage 3 Completing the Basic Hull Structure 19 Stage 4 Mounting the Hull 19 1 Launching Ways 19 2 Option Mounting on Pedestal...

Page 4: ...he ship Dr Feldman s original plans are accompanied by a book Modeling an Armed Virginia Sloop of 1768 see bibliography His book describes the development of the reconstruction and details for buildin...

Page 5: ...define the hull s shape and are used by the drafts man to fair it create even curves A complete set of hull lines is not needed for this model because laser cut bulkheads and the center keel define t...

Page 6: ...eck of dust Give surfaces to be painted two light coats of primer Sand lightly after the last application Don t sand down to bare wood After washing your hands gently dust the hull with a soft brush a...

Page 7: ...olor of natural wood Steering wheel stand and drum Natural finish Hatch coamings Natural finish Hatch covers Natural finish Grating Natural finish Galley stack Black Quarter deck ladders Natural finis...

Page 8: ...then let it dry for five minutes Woods take on water faster than they can release it Hold the tip against the wood to heat it When supple bend the plank over a form or simply lift the end as heat is a...

Page 9: ...before beveling the inside This would maintain a stronger bulwark as you work on the outer planking Glue the bulkheads in place Make sure the top of each bulkhead is flush with the top of the center k...

Page 10: ...re than a filler between the edge of Bulkhead R and the wing transom so the hull planks have some gluing surface On a real ship this area would also be filled with stern framing Figure 1 8 On top of t...

Page 11: ...thick walnut strips The walnut strips are not a required construction fea ture but are added only to retain a walnut covering for those who desire a natural finish Stage 2 discusses this further Fit a...

Page 12: ...in the deck so it will fit Just make sure the sub deck will lie flat on all bulk heads and the center keel before gluing The sub decks can be glued to the bulk heads from below but you will need to us...

Page 13: ...er and planks are easier to hold and fasten Should a mistake occur only a small piece is affected To emulate shipwright practice stagger the butts Figure 2 2 Follow the ship wright s rules indicated a...

Page 14: ...used for the basic single plank All other sizes and wood types would have to be purchased separately Model Expo stocks all the sizes needed First layer of planking There are two ways to approach appl...

Page 15: ...asswood Or stain the end of the bass wood to look like walnut The finished width of the wale is 3 16 but it may require cutting from a slightly wider piece especially the walnut Its natu ral bend is a...

Page 16: ...3 32 basswood for the first layer to be covered by 3 64 x 3 32 walnut From the sheer strake down to the black strake between the gunports fit three equal width 3 64 thick basswood planks to be covered...

Page 17: ...Draw a line through the points and cut the plank Trace this tapered plank to obtain another for the other side of the hull Figure 2 10 Continue until this run is finished then complete the others in...

Page 18: ...ck caulking Be careful Too much paint will penetrate too deeply with unsightly results Do a test first If it doesn t work edge glue the planks with brown wood worker s glue This adhesive dries dark en...

Page 19: ...is yours 1 Launching Ways This type of mounting is most suitable for models without sails Basswood strips are provided in the kit Stain the basswood to look like weathered wood or use a more finished...

Page 20: ...included in the kit An additional hole is required for the bitter end of the hoist ing tackle just inboard of the sheave holes For stowage the anchor can be hung from the cathead on the cat block hook...

Page 21: ...tannia castings The carriage cheeks and the trucks are laser cut walnut parts Make the axles transom bed block and quoin from walnut stripwood The quoin handle could be a brass or wood belay ing pin o...

Page 22: ...re bent into a loop Bend the eye closed if there is a slight gap or touch with a little solder or epoxy glue Ringbolts are composed of an eyebolt and split ring For these use the 1 16 o d cop per eyeb...

Page 23: ...rs at the quarter deck from walnut stripwood Figure 5 13 12 Pumps The pumps on the real ship are wood so for ultra realism they should be wood on the model The barrel is made from the walnut dowel inc...

Page 24: ...l The drum must be turned down slightly using a lathe or chucking the dowel in a drill and filing it down Drill a hole in the drum for a 1 16 dia brass rod provided in kit to support the drum and whee...

Page 25: ...a dowel for extra width 2 Building Installing the Masts Lower mast The mast is round with a rectangular head After shaping the head to its proper size cut the tenon for the mast cap Add the rigging c...

Page 26: ...wedge coat to the mast with woodworker s glue but do not glue it to the deck The mast should be readily removable in the future in case of a restoration 3 Building Installing the Bowsprit and Jibboom...

Page 27: ...f a bit so it does not go all the way through the spar Reminder Paint and detail yards gaff and boom before setting them aside Once rig ging commences they must be ready to install on the mast FIG 6 1...

Page 28: ...will be rigged A small scale sail plan for those desiring to add sails is shown on Plan Sheet 4 No details for making model sails are includ ed herein However as a reference consid er Model Shipways...

Page 29: ...applying a heavy coat of beeswax Those striving for authenticity should serve only the largest lines shrouds and forestay with the kit s polyester fine silk or linen thread Avoid unwaxed cotton if po...

Page 30: ...of shrouds between your fingers so as not to alter their spacing while tying the knots Finally install the cleats on the shrouds The cleats are britannia castings and have a flange on the bottom so th...

Page 31: ...th a collar around the bowsprit Figure 8 9 One way to make the mouse on a model is to use a wooden tear shaped bead and paint it black or serve over it Or just ignore the mouse and seize the end The h...

Page 32: ...around the end of the bowsprit and the shroud terminates into a tackle set to an eyebolt on the hull side The tackle fall is belayed to itself Figure 8 13 6 Footropes and Parrels Footropes are require...

Page 33: ...downhaul that would also be attached to the head and run down to the bowsprit or jibboom where it goes through a block and back to belay on the ship The sails would also have port and starboard sheet...

Page 34: ...ig tackles belay to the bitts rail for ward of the mast Rig the flag halliard at the end of the gaff through a small block The block is not included in the kit here s your chance to make a block Both...

Page 35: ...ckle but secured to the aft end of the port channel and the fall belays to a shroud cleat Figure 9 10 Next add the parrel really black standing rigging to the yard around the mast Figure 9 11 Then rig...

Page 36: ...he topsail sheet blocks if you have not already done so The parrel black line for this yard goes around the vertical horse line in front of the mast Figure 9 16 FIG 9 13 RIGGING THE TOPSAIL YARD BRACE...

Page 37: ...rt as a pendant then a tackle to the end of the bowsprit and belay to cleats at the bow The blocks at the end of the bowsprit are double blocks shared with the topsail yard braces Figure 9 19 The afte...

Page 38: ...gged recheck every line Be certain seizings are sound Add another dab of glue if they aren t Touch up shiny spots on standing rigging with black paint or liquid shoe polish Use a tan stain or brown li...

Page 39: ...s from kits and features Model Shipways kits as well as others The Appendix has a wealth of nautical terms defined especially useful for the beginner Historic Ship Models by Wolfram zu Mondfeld New Yo...

Reviews: