Throttle Curve Set Up:
Build the throttle linkage as shown previously. This linkage length may change but ideally, you’ll want the servo linkage
90 degrees to the servo horn. This ensures equal travel in both directions.
Turn on your transmitter. Scroll to the “throttle curve” screen and notice that there are points, usually 5, that all have an
assignable percentage. For example point 1 is 0% and point 5 is 100% (of the servo’s travel). Ensure that when the
throttle/collective stick is at the mid point (point 3) that the engine’s carburetor is exactly ½ or 50% open (or otherwise
stated in the manual included with the engine). This is crucial to easy set up. You may have to loosen the throttle arm on
the carburetor for this to happen. Place the throttle stick to ½ and see where the carburetor opens to. On most popular
engines today there is a mark that shows the halfway point. If it is not quite ½ way open you can use sub trim to make it
so, but you don’t want to use too much. Too much sub trim can make further set up more difficult.
Move the throttle stick to full throttle. The servo should open the carburetor to full open. If it opens less you can increase
the end point in your radio so that it opens further, and if the servo binds (servo keeps wanting to move but the carburetor
is fully open,) you can decrease the endpoint. Ideally you want the endpoints as close to 100% and 100% as possible.
If you are experiencing the need for more servo movement, try moving the ball link out one hole on the servo arm.
Conversely, if you need much less servo movement, you can move the ball link one hole in.
Once you have this set up in normal mode you’ll have to start and fly the helicopter to determine whether you need
further throttle adjustment. From what we’ve found this is a good starting point.
Setting up for Idle up or stunt mode is a little different, as you’ll want full throttle on either end of the collective/throttle
stick travel. Scroll to the idle up menu in your radio, and you’ll again find points such as 1,2,3,4,5. If you do not have a
governor you have to set up a fixed throttle curve that controls the throttle. If you have a governor, please follow the set
up instructions from the manufacturer of the governor. Without a governor you’ll rely on the throttle curve to control the
engine rpm while you’re managing the collective stick. Make points 1 and 5 100%. Make point 3 50% Then you’ll want
a friend with an optical tachometer (we recommend MA3000-50 Optical Heli Tachometer) to observe the head speed of
your helicopter. Make sure to follow the rotor speed recommendations given by the manufacturer of the rotor blades you
are using. If the head speed is too low, then increase the value of point 3 by 5% increments until you get the head speed
you desire.
Flybarless Stabilization Electronics:
If you have chosen a Flybarless model, it is possible to fly your model without additional stabilization electronics, but
Miniature Aircraft highly recommends using Flybarless Stabilization Electronics. There are several that are commercially
available, and while they all generally accomplish the same thing, they all are set up and programmed differently.
Contact your favorite R/C helicopter retailer and/or talk to your friends to decide which one will be the best for you.
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