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21
English
GB
KNOW YOUR CHAIN SAW
Trigger Release
Throttle Trigger
Chain Drive
Bar Groove
Rear Handle
Battery
Front handle
Front handle / Chain Brake
Chain Lubricant Cap
Saw Chain
Guide Bar
Guide Bar Cover
Front handle / Chain Brake
Bar Mounting Nuts
Spiked Bumper
Combination Wrench
Chain Catcher
Chain Tension Screw
WARNING!
Consequences of improper maintenance, removal or modi-
fication of safety features like the chain brake, ignition
switch, hand guard (front and back), spiked bumper, chain
catcher, guide bar, low kick-back saw chain may cause the
safety features to not function correctly, thus increasing
the potential for serious injury.
Low kick-back saw chain
A low-kick-back saw chain helps to reduce the possibility of a
kickback event.The rakers (depth gauges) ahead of each cutter can
minimize the force of a kick-back reaction by preventing the cutters
from digging in too deeply. Only use replacement guide bar and
chain combinations recommended by the manufacturer.As saw
chains are sharpened, they lose some of the low kickback qualities
and extra caution is required. For your safety, replace saw chains
when cutting performance decreases.
Spiked Bumper
The integral bumper spike may be used as a pivot when making a
cut. It helps to keep the body of the chain saw steady while cutting.
When cutting, push the machine forward until the spikes dig into
the edge of the wood, then by moving the rear handle up or down
in the direction of the cutting line it can help ease the physical
strain of cutting.
Guide Bar
Generally, guide bars with small radius tips have somewhat lower
potential for kick-back. You should use a guide bar and matching
chain which is just long enough for the job. Longer bars increase
the risk of loss of control during sawing. Regularly check the chain
tension. When cutting smaller branches (less than the full length
of the guide bar) the chain is more likely to be thrown off if the
tension is not correct.
Chain Brake
Chain brakes are designed to quickly stop the chain from rotating.
When the chain brake lever/hand guard is pushed towards the
bar, the chain should stop immediately. A chain brake does not
prevent kickback. It only lowers the risk of injury should the chain
bar contact the operator’s body during a kickback event. The chain
brake should be tested before each use for correct operation in both
the run and brake positions.
Chain Catcher
A chain catcher prevents the saw chain from being thrown back
towards the operator if the saw chain comes loose or breaks.
INSTRUCTIONS CONCERNING THE PROPER TECHNIQUES
FOR BASIC FELLING, LIMBING AND CROSS-CUTTING
Understanding the forces within the wood
When you understand the directional pressures and stresses inside
the wood you can reduce the “pinches” or at least expect them
during your cutting. Tension in the wood means the fibers are being
pulled apart and if you cut in this area, the “kerf” or cut will tend to
open as the saw goes through. If a log is being supported on a saw
horse and the end is hanging unsupported over the end, tension is
created on the upper surface due to the weight of the overhanging
log stretching the fibers. Likewise, the underside of the log will be
in compression and the fibers are being pushed together. If a cut is
made in this area, the kerf will have the tendency to close up during
the cut. This would pinch the blade.
Felling a tree
When bucking and felling operations are being performed by two
or more persons at the same time, the felling operations should
be separated from the bucking operation by a distance of at least
twice the height of the tree being felled.
Trees should not be felled in a manner that would endanger any
person, strike any utility line, or cause any property damage.
If the tree does make contact with any utility line, the company
should be notified immediately.
An escape path should be planned and cleared as necessary
before cuts are started. The escape path should extend back and
diagonally to the rear of the expected line of fall.
Before felling starts, consider the natural lean of the tree, the
location of larger branches, and the wind direction to judge which
way the tree will fall.
Remove dirt, stones, loose bark, nails, staples, and wire from the
tree.
Do not attempt to fell trees which are rotten or have been damaged
by wind, fire, lightning, etc. This is extremely dangerous and should
only be completed by professional tree surgeons.
1.Notching undercut
Make the notch 1/3 the diameter of the tree, perpendicular to the
direction of the fall. Make the lower horizontal notching cut first.
This will help to avoid pinching either the saw chain or the guide
bar when the second notch is being made.
2. Felling-back cut
Make the felling-back cut at least 50 mm/ 2 in. higher than the
horizontal notching cut. Keep the felling-back cut parallel to the
horizontal notching cut. Make the felling back cut so enough
wood is left to act as a hinge. The hinge wood keeps the tree
from twisting and falling in the wrong direction.
Do not cut through the hinge.
As the felling gets close to the hinge, the tree should begin to
fall. If there is any chance that the tree may not fall in the desi-
red direction or it may rock back and bind the saw chain, stop
cutting before the felling-back cut is complete and use wedges
of wood, plastic or aluminium to open the cut and drop the tree
along the desired line of fall.
When the tree begins to fall remove the chain saw from the
cut, stop the motor, put the chain saw down, anf use the retreat
path planned. Be alert for falling overhead limbs and watch
your footing.
Summary of Contents for M18 FCHS
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