crossover boards are placed with P6 and P7 facing the
rear of the cabinet. Use 4 standoffs to install each board.
Use the second hole from the rear of the shell for the
standoffs. The XM9 then also uses the fourth hole and the
XM16 uses the fifth hole from the rear. For the 2-way units
mount the two crossovers in the two center positions in
the shell.
Figure 1 Power entry with voltage selector switch.
Figure 2: Potentiometer Cable
Assembly of Front Panel
Install the 6 (4)
10K potentiometers
in the positions
labeled level and damping. Tighten the nuts well. One
DPDT switch
mounts in the position marked power and
the other
DPDT switch
mounts in the position marked
sum. There is a hole left for the indicator LED. Do not
install this LED yet at this time.
Install
wires to potentiometers
. Prepare 3 8" lengths of
red, orange and brown wire. Strip 1/4" of insulation from
each end. Solder one end of each wire to a potentiometer,
as shown in Figure 2. Note the color orientation. Use 3/4"
of heat shrink tubing over each potentiometer terminal.
Shrink with heat gun. Solder a metal terminal to the free
end of each wire. Insert the terminals into the 3 -pin
female Molex connector.
Be sure to insert the proper
colors into the proper connector positions.
(Note: all of the
3-pin female connectors in this kit use the same color
orientation).
Twist the wires to form a 3-wire cable.
Repeat above step for all potentiometers.
Install
wires to the sum mode switch
as shown in . Be
careful to use the right color wires as shown. Use heat
shrink tubing as indicated. Some kits come with a DPST
rocker
switch instead of the
toggle
switch. The rocker
switch does not have the two unused terminals that are
shown in .
The front panel will be attached to the main chassis using
5 black buttonhead screws or flathead screws.
Figure 3: Sum-mode switch cable
Putting it all together
Prepare 2 (4 for 3-way unit) cables as shown in Figure 4.
The two way unit uses one cable
8"
long and another
11"
long. The 3-way unit has two additional cables
6"
long and
15"
long.
Insert all the orange wires from each of the power cables
into the terminal block on the PS10 .
Cut a piece of red wire 3" long and strip 1/4" of insulation
from each end.
Gather the red wires from the power cables and one end
of the 3" red wire and insert them into the terminal block
on the PS10 marked GND.
Figure 4: Power cable
Cut a piece of brown wire 3" long and strip 1/4" of
insulation from each end.
Gather the brown wires from the power cables and one
end of the 3" brown wire and insert them into the terminal
block on the PS10 marked --.
Double check: RED is GND, ORANGE is + and BROWN
is -.
Identify which end of the LED is the cathode (negative)
lead. The LED has a flat on its side next to this lead. Trim
both leads to about 1/4".
Cut both leads of the 10K resistor to 1/4" long.
Solder one of leads of the resistor to the cathode of the
LED.
Using 1" of heat shrink tubing, connect the free end of the
3" brown wire (from the negative terminal of the power
supply) to the free lead of the resistor. slide the tubing
over the resistor, against the LED, to cover the
connections on both ends of the resistor.
Using 1/2" of heat shrink tubing, solder the red wire from
the ground terminal of the power supply to the remaining
lead of the LED (anode).
The PS10 power supply of the crossover should be
grounded to the cabinet through a power resistor.
Solder one lead of the power resistor to the solder lug.
Solder a 3” length of wire to the other end of the 2.4K
© 2000 Marchand Electronics Inc. PO Box 473, Webster, NY, 14580 www.marchandelec.com (716) 872 0980 FAX: (716) 872 1960
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