with "Uhu Plus Acrylit" and simultaneously glue on the keel screen
(26).
Now on to the rudder. The rudder heel (33) will be made from the 3
strips of ABS (plastic) which were cut from the edge of the hull. The
strips should measure 7mm wide by 90mm long. Glue the three strips
on top of the other as illustrated in Fig. 5. Lie the rudder heel on a flat
surface and place aweight on the rudder heel. This will keep the rudder
heel straight while the glue dries.
Once the rudder heel has dried, sand the rudder heel and drill the holes
for the rudder shaft and screws as illustrated in Fig. 5. Now adjust the
rudder heel to the keel, drill the holes in the keel, and screw the rudder
heel to the keel.
Drill the hole for the rudder trunk (27) in the hull base and push the brass
tube through the hole. Now insert the rudder shaft (28), from the
bottom, up through the rudder keel and hull base, assemble the
steering crank (29), steering crank insert (30), and the set screw (31)
to the top of the rudder shaft. Adjust the rudder shaft as illustrated in
the diagram and glue the rudder trunk into the hull with "Uhu Plus
Acrylit" glue. Also glue the trunk bearing (32) behind the rudder trunk.
You can now assemble the rudder plate (using parts 28, 34, and 35)
as illustrated in Fig. 6 and glue them using Uhu Plus Endfest 300 glue.
However, you should first thoroughly roughen the rudder shaft with
sandpaper in the area where the rudder plate will be positioned. This
will allow the epoxy glue to from a secure bond with the metal. The built-
in rudder should have a approx. l mm clearance between the hull and
the rudder heel.
Glue the 2 supports (38) to the bulwarks (37) as illustrated in Fig. 7.
Ensure the supports fit flush. If you use the steam engine "Pintail", you
must shorten the bulwarks as illustrated in Fig. 8 and only then glue the
supports on.
Place the bulwarks in the deck section, adjust it, and glue it to the deck
and supports with Ciano acrylic glue. Apply pressure to the bulwarks
at the supports while the glue sets. Then glue on the strip (39) as
illustrated in the diagram.
Place the ledges (40 through 43) on the deck as illustrated in Fig. 9 and
the diagram. The hatches will also be constructed as illustrated in Fig. 9.
When the hatch surroundings (44 and 45, 47 and 48) are constructed,
place thin cardboard between the ledges and the hatch surroundings
which will ensure the hatch surroundings remain removable. Glue on
the hatches (46 and 49) only after the ledges and the hatch
surroundings have dried.
Glue the seat (50) and the seat back (51) together. Sand parts 50 and
51, place them in the boat and draw the position of the board (52). Then
remove the seat and glue in the board.
Glue the parts for the bow block (54), which will be constructed using
pieces of plywood, together, sand it oblique as illustrated in the
diagram, and glue it to the deck. Simultaneously attach the 2 bow strips
(55) and flag holder at the bow. Make the stern flag holder from pieces
of plywood and glue it to the stern deck as illustrated in the diagram.
Sand the edges of the cleats (60) round, varnish and glue them to the
deck with Ciano acrylic glue.
Assemble all the flagstaff parts (61, 62 and 63) together, glue the flags (
65 and 66) to the ensign halyard and mount it on the flagstaff as
illustrated in the diagram.
Glue the rudder tiller (57) together with wood glue and place it in a nail
jig to set so the light bend will remain. After sanding and varnishing, the
rudder tiller can be screwed to the log/block (which you have already
made using 3 sheets of plywood). The super structure is ready now.
Only if you install the steam engine "Pintail" you will need to assemble
the box (72 through 74) as illustrated in Fig. 10. The box should house
the reversing servo. Plank the box with strips (75) so it looks nearly
authentic.
In this case, fix the servo horizontally with bilateral adhesive tape (3mm
thick) on the seat. The correct positioning is illustrated in the diagram.
The box will be affixed on the servo with the same tape.
Affix the rudder servo horizontally to the supports with bilateral
adhesive tape.
The connection of the rudder and rudder servo will be set by 2 push
rods (67), 2 clevises (68), and set collar (69) as illustrated in Fig. 11.
Installation of the gas tank (only for steam engines with gas burners):
1. Place the gas tank in the bow.
2. Raise the gas tank by pulling up on the regulation screw up to the
hatch.
3. Push the gas tank support, previously made with parts 8 through 11,
under the gas tank and put in the 2 screws.
4. Connect the gas line to the gas tank.
Attention:
Copper tubing gets hard after it has been bent. The copper tubing is
easy to bend the first time. When correcting the bend, the
copper
resists any further bending. To make the corrective bending easier,
heat the copper tubing by placing it over a small flame.
Now secure the steam engine to the boat floor with screws (76).
Now prepare your boat to mark the water line.
The water line which is illustrated in the diagram is for running the boat
with the "Pipit" steam engine installed and Hexamine solid fuel. For
running the boat with a gas tank, the water line has to be determined
in the bath tub. Put the boat in the water in a ready to start condition
which is with the boiler and gas tank filled, steam condenser and figure
in the boat.
In the water, you need to fill in the ballast at stern until the rudder is
completely covered with water. Draw, with a pencil, little marks on the
bow and stern. Remove the boat from the water and draw the line on
the hull as illustrated in Fig. 12.
It looks better when the red underwater varnish is approximately 5mm
higher than the water line.
For the underwater varnishing, a car varnish is suitable.
We wish you a lot of fun with your "Anna"!
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