"ANNA”
The little steam launch with real steam drive!
Congratulations for the purchase of this little, powerful launch with real
steam drive. You chose a steam boat which opens a lot of possibilities
for you.
You can drive "Anna" in three different ways:
1. If you purchased the "Anna" model with the steam engine "Pipit",
use Hexamine solid fuel to fire the boiler, or
2. If you purchased the "Anna" model with the steam engine "Pipit",
and optionally purchased the gas tank (part 210023) and the burner
(part 210063), you can obtain more power and higher speeds, or
3. If you purchased the "Anna" model without the steam engine
"Pipit" and optionally purchased the double-cylinder steam engine
"Pintail" (part 210096), you are able to drive fast or slow, forward or
backward.
Regardless of the model you chose, the model "Anna" is easy to build.
All plywood parts are laser cut and fit precisely. We wish you a plenty
of fun with the building and running of the "Anna".
Instructions
For the gluing of the boat parts, you will need the correct glues:
1. To glue all wooden parts we recommend "Uhu coil waterproof"
(part 45745) or any similar wood glue.
2. To connect ABS (plastic) parts to wood parts, we recommend
ciano acrylic glue, such as "Krick Ruck-Zuck" (part 80491) or "Uhu
Blitz" (part 45890).
3. To glue prop shaft tube and rudder trunk we recommend "Uhu
Plus Acrylit" glue (part 48315), the new two-compound acrylic glue.
4. We recommend a tube of clear silicon sealant which you can
purchase at a hardware or general purpose store.
5. To glue the rudder we recommend "Uhu Plus Endfest 300"
(part 45640) or similar epoxy glue.
WARNING:
Please follow these instructions. Failure to follow the above listed
recommendations may result in damage to the model.
Building Instructions
First, cut out the pre-fabricated hull. The cutting edge is illustrated in
Fig. 1. There will be a small edge over the deck floor.
Make the boat stand from parts 2 through 4. Glue the parts together
with wood glue. After the glue has dried, sand and varnish the stand
using a clear varnish. Place the hull in the stand and slant the edges
of the base plate (5) as illustrated in Fig. 1 until it fits precisely in the
hull. Glue keel plate (6) and frame (7) beneath the base plate and again
check to ensure the base plate fits even with the wall of the hull. Varnish
the base plate and the glued parts with clear varnish. Be sure not to
varnish the edges of the base plate where it will be glued to hull. Once
the varnish has dried, glue the base plate to the hull as follows:
1. Place the hull in the stand.
2. Thickly spread silicon cement on the bottom edge of the keel plate
(6) and the frame (7). Place the keel plate and frame in the hull.
3. Press down on the base plate so it fits the wall of the hull precisely
and let it dry thoroughly.
4. Glue the outer edge of the base plate, with ciano acrylic glue, to
the hull.
We recommend you bend a small piece of wire as illustrated in Fig. 2.
The longer the bent portion is, the bigger the drop will be. Place a small
amount of Ciano acrylic glue in a small container such as a bottle cap.
When you use the wire, you will be able to place the glue exactly where
you want it, without ruining the hull or paint by using too much glue.
The ciano acrylic glue should thoroughly secure the plate edge
downward. Therefore, glue this edge very carefully.
Gas Tank Support
You will only need parts 8 through 12 if you want to install a gas tank. If
you have purchased the model which operates on the Hexamine solid
fuel, you will not need these parts.
Assemble the support parts 8 through 11 as illustrated in figure 3 using
"Uhu coil" glue. Once the glue has dried, sand and varnish the support
and fit it into the hull at the bow. First screw in the support using screw
12. If you use the steam engine "Pintail", you must glue 2 pieces of 3mm
plywood under the gas tank so the gas tank can be pushed fraction
forward. For the "Pipit", draw the screw holes for the gas tank on the
support as illustrated in the diagram. For the "Pintail", draw the screw
holes for the gas tank on the support as far forward as possible. Drill
the holes for screws M3, which must be glued in from the bottom. With
this, the preparations for the gas tank are finished.
Glue the support plates (14 and 15) under the deck (13), in the positions
illustrated in the diagram. These support plates will later hold bulwarks
(37) in a vertical position and should therefore fit precisely as illustrated
in Fig. 1.
The support plates have a hole for the antenna (16). You should insert
the antenna through the hole in the support plates and fix it on the end
with ciano acrylic glue.
The deck fits very tightly in the deck support on the hull. This is
necessary so no gap can form between the wall of the hull and the deck
(Fig. 1). Carefully insert the deck and secure it with adhesive tape.
When gluing the deck to the hull, do so step by step, pushing the deck
against the hull. Apply the glue by using the wire illustrated in figure 2.
Once the glue has dried, and only once the glue has dried, carefully cut
the hull edge even with deck. Be careful when gluing these parts as no
glue should run down the outside of the hull!
Fit the keel (17) on the hull as illustrated in Fig. 4 and affix with ciano
acrylic glue. Drill the hole for the prop shaft tube through the bottom of
the hull.
Cut the isolation plate as per the ground plate of the engine and put it
under the steam engine.
Put the already assembled steam engine with the isolation plate on the
base plate. If not already there, drill four 3mm in diameter holes in the
ground plate of the steam engine.
Put in the prop shaft tube (18) and then place the keel filling block (24)
between the hull and the prop shaft tube and provisionally affix with
ciano acrylic glue.
Mount the shaft with set collar and screw in the prop shaft tube. Adjust
the steam engine and the prop shaft tube so it is positioned exactly as
illustrated in the diagram. Draw the fixing holes on the base plate and
glue the prop shaft tube permanently to the keel.
Fit the prop shaft tube bearing (25) on the prop shaft tube so mainly the
lower edge of the bearing has to be planed. Varnish the bearing and
glue it to the base plate. Insure all gluing points are varnish free.
To avoid clattering, again remove the shaft and push 2 polyamid
washers (77) before and behind the prop shaft tube. The set collar will
be affixed on the shaft with the collar screw (22). The shaft should only
have a small amount of clearance lengthwise. After all parts have been
adjusted and affixed, glue, as illustrated in Fig. 1, a small channel
between keel (17), keel filling block (24) and the hull, which brings the
gap between wood and hull curve to the same level. You must also fill
the gaps between the prop shaft tube (18) and keel parts (17 and 24)
ANNAENGL:PM4
