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2. Layout and mark your workpieces.
We recommend that you layout your cut workpieces on a workbench and mark
each piece on the side that will receive the pocket holes. Measure corner to
corner for square.
3. Drill pocket holes in both ends of rails.
Prepare the jig you will be using to center the screw
in the material thickness being joined and set your
depth collar accordingly (see jig instructions). You
will want to place at least two pocket holes across
the backside of the rail to make sure that it will not
twist once assembled.
4. Position rails into alignment with
reference marks on stile.
After the pocket holes have been drilled
into the rails, place the workpieces into
final alignment on a workbench or assembly
grid. If your face frame will have a
drawer bank, a good way to reference the
size of the opening is to cut a story stick to
size that will allow you to consistently and
accurately place the intermediate rail.
5. Clamp over joint line and drive screws.
No pre-drilling is required of the stile as long as you are using a self-tapping
wood screw. Add glue to the joint line at this time if desired. Place the KREG
Face Clamp or Bench Klamp on the joint line to hold the rail and stile perfectly
flush as the screws are driven.
Occasionally in very hard or dry material you may split the very top or bottom
of a rail when driving a screw. To combat this try cheating the pocket hole on
the rail so they are further from the edge of the stile. Another tip is to use a #6
shank size screw such as the SPS-F125 as opposed to the standard SML-F125
which is a #7. Another option is to use only one pocket hole per rail end if
necessary.
Face Frames
Joint Line
Face Side
Large Pad
