10
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Pulsating - fans/compressor adjusting to optimize
performance
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Rattling - flow of refrigerant, water line, or from items placed
on top of the refrigerator
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Sizzling/Gurgling - water dripping on the heater during
defrost cycle
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Popping - contraction/expansion of inside walls, especially
during initial cool-down
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Water running - may be heard when ice melts during the
defrost cycle and water runs into the drain pan
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Creaking/Cracking - occurs as ice is being ejected from the
ice maker mold.
The doors will not close completely
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Door blocked open? Move food packages away from door.
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Bin or shelf in the way? Push bin or shelf back in the correct
position.
The doors are difficult to open
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Are the gaskets dirty or sticky? Clean gaskets with mild
soap and warm water.
The refrigerator rocks and is not stable
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What do I do if the refrigerator rocks and is not stable?
To stabilize the refrigerator, remove the base grille and lower
the leveling feet until they touch the floor. See the “Door
Removal” instructions, either in the User Instructions or the
separate instruction sheet provided with your refrigerator.
The lights do not work
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Is a light bulb loose in the socket or burned out? See
“Changing the Light Bulbs.”
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Is the dispenser light set to OFF? On some models, the
dispenser light will operate only when a dispenser lever/pad is
pressed. If you want the dispenser light to stay on
continuously, set the dispenser light to ON, or (on some
models) NIGHT LIGHT or AUTO or HALF or DIM. See “Water
and Ice Dispensers.”
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Is the dispenser light set to NIGHT LIGHT or AUTO? On
some models, if the dispenser is set to the NIGHT LIGHT or
AUTO mode, be sure the dispenser light sensor is not
blocked. See “Water and Ice Dispensers.”
Temperature and Moisture
Temperature is too warm
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New installation? Allow 24 hours following installation for the
refrigerator to cool completely.
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Door(s) opened often or left open? Allows warm air to enter
refrigerator. Minimize door openings and keep doors fully
closed.
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Large load of food added? Allow several hours for
refrigerator to return to normal temperature.
■
Controls set correctly for the surrounding conditions?
Adjust the controls a setting colder. Check temperature in
24 hours. See “Using the Controls.”
There is interior moisture buildup
NOTE: Some moisture buildup is normal.
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Humid room? Contributes to moisture buildup.
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Door(s) opened often or left open? Allows humid air to enter
refrigerator. Minimize door openings and keep doors fully
closed.
Ice and Water
The ice maker is not producing ice or not enough ice
■
Refrigerator connected to a water supply and the supply
shutoff valve turned on? Connect refrigerator to water
supply and turn water shutoff valve fully open.
■
Kink in the water source line? A kink in the line can reduce
water flow. Straighten the water source line.
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Ice maker turned on? Make sure wire shutoff arm or switch
(depending on model) is in the ON position.
■
New installation? Wait 24 hours after ice maker installation
for ice production to begin. Wait 72 hours for full ice
production.
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Large amount of ice recently removed? Allow 24 hours for
ice maker to produce more ice.
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Ice cube jammed in the ice maker ejector arm?
Remove ice from the ejector arm with a plastic utensil. (This
does not apply to models with the ice maker mounted at the
top of the freezer door.)
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Reverse osmosis water filtration system connected to
your cold water supply? This can decrease water pressure.
See “Water Supply Requirements.”
The ice cubes are hollow or small
NOTE: This is an indication of low water pressure.
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Water shutoff valve not fully open? Turn the water shutoff
valve fully open.
■
Kink in the water source line? A kink in the line can reduce
water flow. Straighten the water source line.
■
Reverse osmosis water filtration system connected to
your cold water supply? This can decrease water pressure.
See “Water Supply Requirements.”
■
Questions remain regarding water pressure? Call a
licensed, qualified plumber.
WARNING
Explosion Hazard
Use nonflammable cleaner.
Failure to do so can result in death, explosion, or fire.
