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FOR FIRST FIRE
All Kent wood fires are finished in a high temperature quality stove paint. The paint has
not
been fully cured until it has been heated. If the fire is run too hot, too fast, the paint will burn off
before it has had a chance to fully bond to the steel. When the fire is first used, it should be run
on “low” for the first 4 hours to allow the paint time to fully cure.
CLEANING OUT THE WOOD FIRE
Your wood fire should require minimum cleaning. If the wood fire is operated correctly, and
according to the instructions most of the ash will be consumed by the fire and a bed of ash will
be maintained that does not build up to any great extent.
If you find that you have to clean out ashes every day or so, it indicates that the wood fire is not
being operated correctly. Either excessively wet wood, unseasoned wood or foreign materials
are being burnt, or the air control is being turned down too much.
Don’t clean out the firebox completely during the heating season. Leave about 25mm of ash
in the bottom of the firebox after cleaning. These ashes in the bottom of the wood fire assist the
burning process, by insulating the firebox and allowing air circulation under the fire bed.
When emptying ashes use a metal container with a tight fitting lid. Do not use this container for
any other purpose. The closed container of ashes should immediately be taken outdoors to a
location well away from any combustible materials, pending final disposal. If the ashes are to
be disposed of by burial in the garden or otherwise locally dispersed, they should be retained
in the container until they are completely extinguished and cold. This may take several days.
CREOSOTE FORMATION AND NEED FOR REMOVAL
We recommend the flue of your wood fire is inspected before use at the start of each heating
season and also periodically during the season. When you are able to operate the wood fire
without creating creosote deposits, the interval between inspections may be increased, but
the flue must always be inspected and cleaned at least once a year.
The flue should be swept by a professional chimney sweep to remove any build-up of creosote
and soot. A professional sweep should also advise of any problems that may be detected in the
inspection of the flue and offer advice on any repair and replacements. Your Kent wood fire requires
minimal maintenance, and will keep its good looks for a long time with just a little attention.
RUST
Your Kent wood fire is manufactured using steel components. Due to the extreme operating
temperatures and inconsistent fuel that wood fires are subjected to, a small amount of rusting over
time on the inside of the fire box is normal. Without adequate care it is realistic to expect that the steel
fire box and internal components will show signs of corrosion.
All steel, including stainless steel requires a level of care and protection to retain its appearance. No
steel is immune to corrosion and neither is it maintenance free.
If your fire box and internal components are showing signs of more than a small amount of surface
rust, and a water leak can be eliminated, moisture in the fire box can only be due to the environment
the fire is installed in, and or, through the fuel that is being used.
Seasoned wood is a very vague term as it depends on how the wood has been kept and stored
since it was felled. Just because a log was felled 2 years ago, does not mean that it is seasoned
enough to be considered “good wood” and suitable fire wood.
Visual inspection takes a lot of experience to tell if a piece of wood is sufficiently seasoned and dry
enough to be “good wood”. Wet or unseasoned wood is not good for heat output as it produces more
smoke. The moisture released from wet wood combined with the smoke is in most cases corrosive.
Purchasing a moisture meter is an inexpensive way to test how dry your wood is. Always test a new
load of fire wood to gauge if it is “good wood”. This will help determine how your fire wood needs
to be handled - use now, to be aired or stored for next season.