Host ARIDEX, Manual, Page: 13 / 48

Fabrics
Identifying Fabrics Brocatel or Brocatelle - Similar to brocade,
but the pattern stands out in high relief and
Fabrics are classified in two ways: by weave and is much more noticeable above the surface
pattern, or by the origin of the fiber (for example,
than in brocade. Pattern has a “blistered”
natural or man-made). For cleaning purposes it is appearance. The blistered areas have a
the second classification system that is most double back. This is a flat pattern.
important.
Chintz - A printed cotton fabric that is quite
The basic types of weaves or patterns are plain, often glazed. The base fabric is a simple flat
twill, and satin. Weaves can also be classified weave, usually a sheeting. Printed pattern
as flat or pile. usually consists of small, lively figures or
large motifs. Used most often for draperies
Flat fabrics have a flat surface formed by weaving and slip covers. Chintz cannot be cleaned
yarns at right angles to one another. Velvets and because any moisture removes the glaze.
mohair have a surface made up of fibers standing
on end like the pile of a rug.
Corduroy - Characterized by a definite corded
or ribbed appearance. While corduroy
Even though most fabrics are cleaned the same resembles a velvet fabric, it is a flat weave.
way, the following descriptions of the most common The corded or ribbed effect is produced by
types of fabrics may be helpful. floating an extra set of filling yarns over the
surface, then cutting these yarns so they
Artificial leather - Fabric coated with stand up like tufts. These tufts are then
nitrocellulose and embossed, then colored teased, singed, and brushed. Corduroy is
to look like leather. This can be cleaned the generally made of cotton or mercerized cotton.
same as cloth. Use a leather dressing after
cleaning.
Crash - A simple, flat weave characterized
by a surface of coarse yarns woven in an
Boucle - A rather flat looking material with a uneven texture. Made of cotton or linen,
surface made up of yarns with knots and sometimes combined with jute.
spirals. No regular pattern. Surface yarns do
not cover the entire face, but are irregularly
Damask - Material with reversible pattern
placed to leave parts of the surface open. which changes color on the reverse side.
A flat fabric made of wool, cotton, rayon, Whereas the pattern of a brocade is raised,
or a blend. the pattern in a damask is very flat. Linen
table cloths are characteristic of the damask
Brocade - A figured material in which the weave. Upholstery damasks are made of silk,
design is woven in relief against a foundation cotton, linen, wool, rayon, mercerized cotton,
of a different weave. Whereas damask has singly or in combination. High quality damasks
a very flat pattern, brocade has a slightly are very tightly woven.
raised or “embossed” pattern. This is
produced by using yarns of different colors
Embossed fabrics - These can be either
or by exposing contrasting surfaces of the flat fabrics or velvets. Flat fabrics and various
same color yarns. A flat fabric originally weaves are embossed by running them
woven of gold and silver silk threads, but now between engraved rollers. Plain velvets of
made of silk, cotton, rayon, or a combination mohair, rayon, or cotton are sometimes
of cotton and rayon in various colors. embossed, then sheared and brushed to
bring up the pressed pile to form a design.
10