HearthStone 8012, Owner'S Manual

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25
Troubleshooting
Virtually all woodstove operators experience basic
common problems at one time or another. Most are
correctable and generally require only a minor
adjustment of the stove, installation, or operating
technique. In cases where weather conditions
dramatically affect stove performance, the problems
are typically temporary and solve themselves once
the weather changes.
If you question whether or not your stove is
producing adequate heat, the best way to
troubleshoot the problem is to monitor the
temperature of the stack. A 400 degree F (200
degree C) stovepipe confirms the stove is supplying
sufficient heat. Keep in mind that your house itself
will regulate room/house temperatures. How well
the walls, floors and ceilings are insulated, the
number and size of glass windows, the tightness of
outside doors, and the construction or style of your
house (vaulted ceilings or other open spaces which
collect large percentages of heat, ceiling fans, etc.)
all are determining factors of room temperature.
Your stove's performance is also dependant on its
installation.
One common cause of poor
performance is an oversized chimney flue.
Oversized chimney flues result in decreased
pressure, which prevents the smoke from rising out
the chimney. Oversized flues are also more difficult
to heat effectively, especially when burning a high
efficiency stove. Cool flue temperatures inhibit the
establishment of a strong draft (and encourage the
accumulation of creosote). The lack of a strong draft
will cause the fire to die down and may even force
the smoke to pour into the room.
If your chimney is the proper size and a strong draft
is not easily established, there is the possibility of
the chimney being too cold. Again, hot chimneys
promote a stronger draft.
Other draft guidelines are as follows:
AN "AIRTIGHT" HOUSE: If your home is super-
insulated or especially well sealed, the (infiltration)
air supply to the interior of the house may be
inadequate. This phenomenon of air starvation
within the building can be exacerbated if exhaust
fans, such as clothes dryers, bathroom fans or cook
stove exhaust fans, are in operation within the
home. Outfitting your stove with the optional outside
air supply adaptor connected to an air duct which
leads to the outside of the building should correct
this problem.
TALL TREES OR BUILDINGS: These obstructions,
when located in proximity to the top of the chimney
can cause chronic or occasional down-drafts. When
selecting a site for a new chimney, take care to
consider the placement of other objects in the
vicinity of the proposed chimney location.
WIND VELOCITY: Generally, the stronger and
steadier a wind, the stronger (better) the draft.
However, "gusty" wind conditions may cause erratic
down-drafts.
BAROMETRIC PRESSURE: Chimney drafts are
typically sluggish on balmy, wet or muggy days.
This is a weather-related phenomenon, which
generally is self-correcting as the weather changes.
BRISKNESS OF FIRE: The hotter the fire in your
stove, the hotter your chimney and, therefore, the
stronger the draft.
BREAKS IN THE VENTING SYSTEM: An unsealed
clean-out door at the bottom of the chimney, leaky
stovepipe
joints, a poor stovepipe-to-thimble
connection, or a leaky chimney may cause
inadequate draft.
SEASONAL FACTORS: Early fall and late spring
are generally difficult seasons in which to establish
proper drafts. The colder the outside air (relative to
room temperatures), the stronger the draft.
Operating the Stove
There are days when a draft is not easily
established. As outlined above, seasonal factors or
a cold chimney may be the cause. Try starting the
fire by using small kindling and fuel to obtain a quick,
hot fire. Tend the fire frequently with small fuel until
the chimney is hot and the draft is well established.