24
31072 Rev G
08/04
MHC36 AND MHR36 INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
CAUTION:
Never use gasoline, gasoline-type lantern fuel,
kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid, or similar liq-
uids to start or “freshen up” a fire in this fire-
place. Keep all such liquids well away from the
fireplace.
Note:
When first lighting your fireplace, it may be
necessary to pre-warm the flue to establish a draft.
This is done by holding a rolled up piece of burn-
ing newspaper under the flue damper for a few mo-
ments. This will help reduce smoke spillage dur-
ing start-up.
WARNING!
Fireplaces equipped with doors should be op-
erated only with the doors fully open or fully
closed. If doors are left partially open, gas and
flame may be drawn out of the fireplace open-
ing, creating the risk of both fire and smoke.
Note:
The first three or four fires should be of mod-
erate size to allow the oils and binders to be burned
from the fireplace and the refractory and paint to
cure. You may notice an industrial odor the first few
fires. This is considered normal.
As you use the fireplace, expansion and contrac-
tion will cause minor cracking of the refractory. This
is normal, unavoidable, and will not affect the per-
formance of the fireplace. If the cracks become large
enough that the metal behind the refractory is ex-
posed or large pieces fall out, the panels should
be replaced.
SEASONING:
Seasoned firewood is nothing more than
wood that is cut to size, split and air dried to a moisture
content of around 20%. The time it takes to season
wood varies from around nine months for soft woods
to as long as eighteen months for hardwoods. The key
to seasoning wood is to be sure it has been split,
exposing the wet interior and increasing the surface
area of each piece. A tree that was cut down a year
ago and not split is likely to have almost as high a
moisture content now as it did when it was cut.
The following guideline will ensure properly seasoned
wood:
a.
Stack the wood to allow air to circulate freely
around and through the woodpile.
b.
Elevate the woodpile off the ground to allow air
circulation underneath.
c.
The smaller the pieces, the faster the drying
process. Any piece over 6 in. in diameter should
be split.
d.
Cover the top of the woodpile for protection from
rain and snow. Avoid covering the sides and ends
completely. Doing so may trap moisture from the
ground and impede air circulation.
The problems with burning wet, unseasoned wood are
twofold: First, you will receive less heat output from
wet wood because it requires energy in the form of
heat to evaporate the water trapped inside. This is
wasted energy that should be used for heating your
home. Secondly, this moisture evaporates in the form
of steam which has a cooling effect in your fireplace
and chimney system. When combined with tar and
other organic vapors from burning wood it will form
creosote which condenses in the relatively cool
fireplace and chimney.
8. Starting a Fire
Check the flue damper to be certain it is in the full open
position. Place crumpled or twisted paper under the
fireplace grate. Loosely arrange kindling or small
pieces of wood to form a layer above the paper.
The fires must be built on the fireplace grate, without
danger of the burning fuel falling out of the fireplace
opening.
Light the paper and add small pieces of wood until a
hot bed of embers has been established.
After establishing the fire bed, and the small firewood
is burning briskly, add a minimum of three average
sized pieces of split firewood, place the wood in such
a manner to allow combustion air and flames between
them.
9. Draft Problems
This fireplace will operate correctly only if adequate
ventilation is provided to allow proper draft to the
fireplace system. Hearth & Home Technologies
assumes no responsibility for the improper
performance of the fireplace system caused by
inadequate draft due to environmental conditions, down
drafts, tight sealing construction of the structure, or
mechanical exhausting devices which will create a
negative air pressure within the structure where the
fireplace is located.
