page 4 - GVO1515
Well done you have finished the panels….
Points to note as you construct your shed:
·
Do not
attempt to assemble panels in windy conditions
·
Make
sure your foundations are squared and level before erecting panels.
·
It is
easier to remove all swarf (filings) before you stand your walls up
·
Complete
all
panels
before erecting your shed.
·
Keep a firm grip on panels when handling. If they slip they will cause damage.
·
Always wear non slip gloves protective footwear and eyewear.
5: Now to join your corners and put your roof on….
1st: Stand up the back wall and as your helping hand is holding it up bring the one end wall into meet it at
the left corner overlapping the corners as Fig
1
. Drill & Fix at approx 100mm down from the top and up
from the bottom drilling and fixing from the outside.
2nd: Bring the other end wall into the right back corner and perform the same again checking to make sure
the walls are sitting flat at the bottom
3rd: Bring the front wall into place and join the front corners to the end walls same as the back.
4th: Finish joining corners by fixing at approx 300mm apart. You will find it easier to drill these
corners if they are supported on the inside. Use the handle end of a hammer into the in-
side of the corner, but beware of drilling holes in the end of your hammer.
5th: With a person at each end of the roof, waft it over top of your upright walls and lower
down on top with an overhang that looks best to you. At the left end fix thru the “L” flash-
ing into the top channel of the left end wall. Measure the overhang at the back and fix the
right end “L” to the right end wall with the same overhang as the Left end. If the roof is
difficult to get to the same overhang at each end this will be caused by unlevel site
or
walls
are not square. Adjust accordingly. Fix “L”s at 300mm’s apart.
6th: Using your ladder and tape measure, fix down thru the top of the roof, thru the pan into
the top channel of front and back walls. (10mm more than the overhang). Fix beside every
2nd rib. (Fig 2). You will not need to worry about these fixings leaking as any water seeping
thru these fixings will end up on the outside of the walls.
7th: Attach padbolt to door strap if not already done so. Check that all swarf is removed and
most importantly….
8th: Fix your shed down to its foundations. If your foundations are unlevel or bowed, you will
have problems with your padbolt and door levels. This can be fixed by slipping a spade un-
der either door jamb and lifting. You will soon get a feel for which side needs propping up.
Well done!
If you choose to vary from these instructions your warranty will be impaired.
Recessed floor clamps
For especially poured floors
with recess around perimeter.
Flat floor clamps
For existing concrete only.
Water can seep underneath.
Fig
1
Fig
2
It is
utmost
essential that every shed has
a floor, but the only way to make sure
your shed is there to stay on windy sites is
with a recessed concrete floor
and
phone
0800 80 SHED
for more free advise
.
1.
The door braces can be fitted now that you have assembled your shed.
2.
Tuck one end of the 'Z' between the bottom channel of the inside of the
door and the sheet. Do the same at the top, overlapping in the centre be-
hind the padbolt. If you have a locking 'T' handle you will have to run the 'Z's
the opposite way to the diagram.
3.
Rivet the 'Z's at the ends, and in the centre of the channel it is tucked un-
der, and through the overlap in the centre. Two or three more rivets will be
required through the door sheeting into the 'Z', but they will need to be riv-
eted through from the outside of the door for a neater appearance.
4.
You may need to cut or bend the flange at the bottom and the top of the
'Z' if it catches on the door jamb when opening or closing (diagram 1).
