INSTRUCTION MANUAL
F-14
The receiver aerial must be laid out full-length in as straight a
line as possible, and kept as far as you can away from electric
motors, servos, high-current cables and metal pushrods.
In model aircraft it is best to run the aerial out of the fuselage
by the shortest route and attach it to the fin under light tension
using a small rubber band.
Provide some means of strain relief inside the fuselage and
run the aerial through a piece of fuel tubing or similar to pre-
vent chafing at the outlet. Fig. 9 shows a typical installation in
schematic form.
The receiver aerial must not be shortened, or you will suffer a
loss of effective range (see Fig. 10). If the distance to the fin
is shorter than the aerial, just allow the excess length to trail
freely behind the model. In the case of a CFRP fuselage or a
fuselage reinforced with carbon fibre the aerial must be deplo-
yed outside the fuselage, and should not even run parallel to
the fuselage, as this material shields the signal and can cause
reception problems.
Install the receiver switch in such a way that the toggle can
be moved to both extremes of travel without obstruction, i.e.
the opening in the fuselage side must be big enough. In mo-
dels powered by a glowplug, diesel or petrol motor the switch
should always be fitted on the side opposite to the exhaust,
otherwise oil may penetrate and soil the contacts.
If you are using extra-long servo leads, e.g. for aileron servos
installed in the wings, the servo leads may pick up a signal and
feed interference to the receiver. Wherever servo cables are
longer than two normal leads (approx. 50 cm) you should use
twisted cables at the very least.
Even better - use suppressor filters.
In small models it is tempting to leave the aerial coiled up, but
this should never be done. It is much better to arrange it on a
small plate made of plywood or plastic as shown in Fig. 11, as
this does not have a marked influence on effective radio range.
Always use the rubber grommets and brass eyelets supplied
with servos when installing them in the model. Servo retai-
ning screws should be tightened just to the point where the
brass eyelets make contact. Don’t over-tighten the screws and
squeeze the eyelets out of shape, as this would forfeit the dam-
ping effect of the rubber grommets. Fig. 12 shows the basic
method of installing a servo.
In model aircraft you will need to fit suitable servo plates or
quick-release mounts. In RC model cars servos are usually in-
stalled in recesses or openings designed for them. In model
boats quick-release servo mounts are a good solution.
Most modern servos feature a splined output shaft, and this
makes it possible to adjust the mechanical neutral position of
the servo. To do this first undo the output arm retaining screw
and remove the output device. Move the output lever to the ap-
propriate position and re-fit the retaining screw. Fig. 13 shows a
servo with the pushrod connected. Various servo output arms
are available to fit Futaba servos, and Fig. 14 shows the diffe-
rent types. This drawing also shows the effect of moving the
output arm round for fine adjustment.
7
Fig. 9
Fig. 10
Fig. 11
Fig. 12
1 nut M2.3...2.6
2 washer
3 grommet
4 bush
5 aluminum sheet
6 screw M2.3...2.6
1 screw for wood
2 washer
3 grommet
4 bush
5 wood
Fig. 13
fixture screw
linkage
Fig. 14
