ELECTRODE CLEANING
The
floatron
is the only purifier which, in addition to generating beneficial mineral
ions, collects undesirable minerals such as calcium and iron. This has the effect of
softening your water. The sacrificial mineral electrode is designed to slowly erode
away, and in the process will form a scale build up which will require occasional
cleaning. The spring electrode may also form a scale, which normally consists of
calcium, and should also be cleaned. The initial rate of buildup will be quicker in
harder water, and will slow as the water becomes progressively softened.
Heavily
scaled electrodes will restrict electrical flow and slow the ionization process,
therefore it is advantageous to clean them on a weekly basis:
1.
Lay unit face down, preferably on grass.
2.
Remove thumbscrew, screen, and endcap.
3.
Blast with a jet of water from garden hose nozzle, from different directions,
to knock off loose material and scale.
4.
Reduce the water flow, and with water running over the electrodes,
attack buildup with cleaning brush to remove most of the remainder of
residues,
The center electrode need not be cleaned down to bare metal, although the
spring is relatively easy to clean completely. If the majority of the scale is removed,
the
floatron
will perform satisfactorily. It is not possible to clean the electrodes too
much or too often. The cleaner the electrodes, the more efficient the operation.
Occasionally, the screen will require cleaning to ensure a free flow of water and
ion exchange. Because the mesh is very fine, deposits can slowly choke the
openings in the screen and restrict water flow. To clean the white mesh screen:
1.
Hose out loose debris.
2.
Immerse screen in a jar of vinegar until visually free of blue / white scale
buildup OR mix about 1/3 Muratic acid/Hydrochloric acid to 2/3 water
and place basket into the jar containing the mixture. The cleaning process
will take a minute or less. Do not expose basket to the acid mix for more
than a minute.
3.
Rinse basket and reinstall on floater
MAINTENANCE
It is important to spend a few minutes a week to monitor the water balance, clean
the unit, and to learn the trends. After a couple of months of experience, you
should have a good idea about how little chlorine or oxidizer, is required, how
much floating time does the job, the best way and frequency to clean the
electrodes, etc.
The
floatron
works well with trace chlorine, or any other oxidizer of your choice.
Algaecides, conditioners, clarifies, etc., etc., are unnecessary. Higher chlorine levels
may be required with an increase in water temperature, increased swimmer load,
rainfall, or new water added. If using liquid chlorine, add at or after sundown
because the sun's rays quickly neutralize chlorine. The recommended levels are not
absolute and may vary with changing water conditions. What works best for your
pool is determined by experience. Allow your water to seek its own balance. Do
not arbitrarily alter the pH, apply large doses of chlorine (AKA 'Shock'), add
algaecide, add conditioner, or try to change perfectly clear water. Give your pool
water time to stabilize, and remember, SIMPLICITY IS THE KEY.
ELECTRODE REPLACMENT
The mineral electrode is sacrificial and design to slowly disintegrate. After an
average of 12 - 24 months, depending on conditions, the electrode will wear
away and require replacement. You will know this when it is 'pencil thin', or about
1/4 inch at its thinnest point. To remove the spent electrode:
1.
Remove screen and endcap, and clean parts.
2.
While compressing spring electrode with one hand, rotate center
electrode counterclockwise. If necessary, use pliers for leverage.
3.
Continue to unthread until free.
The procedure for installing the electrode is in reverse order, and can be found
under 'INITIAL ASSEMBLY'.
NOTE: Always keep the same end of the electrode to the floater. Do not swap
ends when removing and replacing your electrode.
