Factory Five Racing Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe, Owner'S Manual

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to verify mileage is by inspecting the drum brake shoes on the unit. The drum pulls straight out, off the axle.
Rear shoes are never really replaced until about 60-100K miles unless there was severe duty (read abuse)
placed on the car.
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The easiest way to avoid engine work is to buy a donor car with an engine that runs . Everyone will tell you
it runs, but it’s best to hear for yourself. Bring a battery with you since for some reason, that’s usually the
first thing that gets taken out. A battery also helps when some guy says, “Don’t worry it runs great, but since
I don’t have the battery you’ll have to trust me.” The Mustang is
computer controlled and should run really well the first or second
time it is turned over. If at all possible, put the car into the gear and
drive it forward and backward. If you can’t drive it, let it run for a
moment, and then re-start it. Look for main bearing oil leaks
(behind the harmonic balancer) or oil pan leaks. Leaks aren’t
common unless the car has high mileage. Valve cover gaskets
commonly leak at around 50,000 miles and are easy to replace so
don’t sweat them.

If the engine block has been painted, it is a good indication that the engine was re-manufactured since the
block was never painted at the factory. Even brand new 5.0L blocks with relatively few miles on the
odometer will have a surface dusting of corrosion.

Since our kit can use the original drive shaft (that gets shortened), the quality and condition of the slip yolk
(transmission end) and the rear flange is important. The slip yolk must be smooth and clean without scores
or gouges that can cause premature wear and develop leaks down the road. We recommend using only yokes
from manual transmission cars; the automatic cars have a weight that limits the universal joint movement.

The front spindles should be clean, dry, and have decent rotors and calipers without much dirt or crud
accumulation. There should be no deep grooves or huge flakes of rust inside the rotor contact area. If you
do have rotors with lots of rust inside the cooling fins, you are usually looking at an older car part or it has
been sitting for a while.
We’ve rarely seen serious problems with donor car parts. An occasional bent axle, bad steering rack, or
mangled tie rod end are about all we’ve come across. Second gear seems to get the lion’s share of abuse in the
T5 transmission. The factory drivetrain is remarkably tough so try not to worry excessively about the donor
parts; odds are they will work just fine.
Disassembly of a Mustang Donor for Parts
Ford Motor Company designs all of their cars for rapid and accurate assembly. These cars come apart quickly
and easily if you remember to look at it from the assembly point of view. The rear vertical shock, for example,
is not as much an individual part as it is a part of the entire rear end assembly. The engine and transmission are
actually dropped in and fastened at four points (2 engine mounts, 1 transmission mount, and the drive shaft).
Think of this job as a reverse assembly line and it will go faster. If you are getting ready to disassemble a
Mustang, please refer to the “donor parts list” Appendix. A Chilton’s repair manual has quite good step-by-step
disassembly instructions for each assembly. We have tried to be helpful here but a Chilton’s manual or any
other quality manual will make it that much easier. Many manuals licensed by Ford use excellent Ford
drawings, schematics and diagrams.
When in doubt, don’t throw it out. That one little OEM bolt could save you a trip to the auto parts store.