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8.3.3. Setting the stop length (Fig. 18)
The stop rail (25) can be moved in longitudinal
direction in order to prevent the workpiece from
becoming jammed.
Rule of thumb: The rear end of the stop comes
up against an imaginary line that begins roughly
at the center of the blade and runs at an angle of
45° to the rear.
Set the required cutting width
- Slacken the knurled screws (26) and push the
stop rail (25) forward until it touches the
imaginary 45° line. Retighten the knurled screws
(26).
8.4. Cross stop (Figure 17)
Use the eccentric lever (12) to clamp the
universal stop in the required position in the left
or right guide rail (52).
Release the clamping lever (10) to set the stop to
the required lateral position and then secure the
lever again.
Undo the knurled screw (32) to set the required
angle on the cross stop and then tighten the
knurled screw again. The angle setting device
has notched positions for all standard angle
sizes.
The stop rail can be adjusted by undoing the two
thumb screws (26).
Important!
Do not push the stop rail (25) too far toward the
blade.
The distance between the stop rail (25) and the
blade (4) should be approx. 12 mm.
8.5. Setting the angle (Fig. 24)
Undo the fixing handle (9).
Turn the handle to set the desired angle on the
scale.
Lock the fixing handle again in the required angle
position.
The saw comes with an angle stop (14).
When the angle stop is in the left position (Fig.
24), the stop is active at 0° or 45°.
When the angle stop is in the right position you
can set a saw blade angle up to max. -2° or
+47°.
8.6 Use as an underswing drag saw
For use as an underswing draw saw the lock (36) of
the saw unit has to be released.
This is done by pulling the drag device (8) slightly
outwards and releasing the lock (Fig. 23).
8.7 Use as a bench-type circular saw (Fig. 22/23)
For use as a bench-type circular saw the saw unit
has to be fixed in place.
This is done by engaging the lock in one of the
two grooves (a/b) of the draw bar (Fig. 22/23).
After the lock (36) latches in place, check that it
is effective.
If the saw unit is fixed in the middle groove (b)
you will have a larger workpiece support on the
rear side of the table.
You can clamp the parallel stop in the required
position by pressing the eccentric lever (12).
9. Operation
Important!!
After every new adjustment we recommend you
to make a trial cut in order to check the new
settings.
After switching on the saw, wait for the blade to
reach its maximum speed of rotation before
commencing with the cut.
Take extra care when starting the cut!
Before use, the saw must be screwed securely to
the metal angle brackets (a) supplied! To do this,
the metal bracket (a) must be secured to the
machine body with the screws (b) as shown in
Fig. 29.
9.1. Making longitudinal cuts (Figure 26)
Longitudinal cutting (also known as slitting) is when
you use the saw to cut along the grain of the wood.
Important! The saw unit must be fixed in place (see
8.7).
Press one edge of the workpiece against the parallel
stop (7) while the flat side lies on the saw table (1).
The guard hood (2) must always be lowered over the
workpiece.
When you make a longitudinal cut, never adopt a
working position that is in line with the cutting
direction.
Set the parallel stop (7) in accordance with the
workpiece height and the desired width. (See
8.3.)
Switch on the saw.
Place your hands (with fingers closed) flat on the
workpiece and push the workpiece along the
parallel stop (7) and into the blade (4).
Guide at the side with your left or right hand
(depending on the position of the parallel stop)
only as far as the front edge of the guard hood.
Always push the workpiece through to the end of
the splitter (5).
The offcut piece remains on the saw table (1)
until the blade (4) is back in its position of rest.
Secure long workpieces against falling off at the
end of the cut (e.g. with a roller stand etc.) .
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Summary of Contents for PSEm 2505P
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