8.3. Parallel stop
8.3.1. Stop height (Fig. 19/20)
The parallel stop (7) supplied with the bench-
type circular saw has two different guide faces.
For thick material you must use the stop rail (23)
as shown in Fig. 22, for thin material you must
use the stop rail as shown in Fig.23.
8.3.2. Cutting width (Fig. 19/20)
The parallel stop (7) has to be used when
making longitudinal cuts in wooden workpieces.
The parallel stop (7) should be mounted on the
right-hand side of the saw blade (4).
The parallel stop (7) must be pushed into the
guide (17) from the outside.
Set the parallel stop (7) to the required
dimension and fix it in place with the eccentric
lever (9).
8.3.3. Setting the stop length (Fig. 21)
The stop rail (23) can be moved in longitudinal
direction in order to prevent the workpiece from
becoming jammed.
Rule of thumb: The rear end of the stop comes
up against an imaginary line that begins roughly
at the center of the saw blade and runs at an
angle of 45° to the rear.
Set the required cutting width
- Slacken the thumb screws (51) and push the
stop rail (23) forward until it touches the
imaginary 45° line.
- Re-tighten the thumb screws (51).
8.4. Cross stop and sliding table (Fig.28)
Slide the cross stop (7) into the groove (a) of the
sliding table.
Slacken the clamping screw (12) and turn the
cross stop (2) until the arrow points to the angle
required.
Tighten the clamping screw (12).
Clamp the cross stop (7) with the clamping
screw (31) in the required position on the sliding
table.
Important!!
Do not push the stop rail (43) too far toward the
blade.
The distance between the stop rail (43) and the
blade (4) should be approx. 2 cm.
8.5. Setting the angle (Fig. 17)
Undo the fixing handle (9) for the angle setting.
Turn the handle (9) to set the desired angle on
the scale (b).
Lock the fixing handle (9) again in the required
angle position.
9.0. Operation
Important!!
After every new adjustment we recommend you
to make a trial cut in order to check the new
settings.
After switching on the saw, wait for the blade to
reach its maximum speed of rotation before
commencing with the cut.
Take extra care when starting the cut!
Before use, the saw must be screwed securely
to the metal angle bracket supplied! To do this,
the metal bracket (a) must be secured to the feet
(18) with the screws (b), as shown in Fig. 24.
9.1. Making longitudinal cuts (Figure 22)
Longitudinal cutting (also known as slitting) is when
you use the saw to cut along the grain of the wood.
To make longitudinal cuts, the sliding table has to be
locked at the back of the machine with the lock (19)
(Fig. 18). Press one edge of the workpiece against
the parallel stop (6) while the flat side lies on the saw
table (1).
The saw blade guard (2) must always lie on the
workpiece.
When you make a longitudinal cut, never adopt a
working position that is in line with the cutting
direction.
Set the parallel stop (7) in accordance with the
workpiece height and the desired width. (See
8.3.)
Switch on the saw.
Place your hands (with fingers closed) flat on the
workpiece and push the workpiece along the
parallel stop (7) and into the blade (4).
Guide at the side with your left or right hand
(depending on the position of the parallel stop)
only as far as the front edge of the guard hood.
Always push the workpiece through to the end of
the splitter (5).
The offcut piece remains on the saw table (1)
until the blade (4) is back in its position of rest.
Secure long workpieces against falling off at the
end of the cut (e.g. with a roller stand etc.) .
9.1.2. Cutting narrow workpieces (Fig. 26)
Be sure
to use a push stick (3) when making
longitudinal cuts in workpieces smaller than 120
mm in width. A push block is supplied with the
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