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The following table represents some of the most common technical support questions we receive. Before calling
us, please read thoroughly to see if your question or problem is addressed.
PROBLEM
POSSIBLE CAUSE
SOLUTION
Unit is not heating at all (water is
flowing but the unit is not heating
at all — the outgoing water
temperature is the same as my
cold water supply) and/or the
digital display does NOT light up.
No power or incorrect wiring.
Make sure the breakers at main electrical panel are ON. You may have a faulty
breaker or unit may be wired incorrect. Refer to page 13 for proper wiring
layout.
Internal part failure.
Please call us for technical assistance.
Unit is not heating at all (water
is flowing but the unit is not
heating at all - the outgoing water
temperature is the same as my
cold water supply) The digital
display DOES light up.
Internal part failure.
Please call us for technical assistance.
Flow rate is too low / water
pressure is too low*
Your water heater has an activation flow rate of approximately 0.3 GPM. If your
water flow rate is less than this level, your unit will not activate. Increase the
flow rate.
Activation temperature too
low
The water heater will turn on when the temperature of the water at the inlet of
the AutoBooster™ falls below the activation temperature (when the tank is not
providing hot water). Increase activation temperature.
Unit is heating but the water
temperature is not hot enough.
User temperature setting too
low.
Turn up the temperature setting on the unit.
Voltage less than 240 volts.
The heating elements on your unit are designed for 240 volts. When use with a
lower voltage, they produce less heating power.
Mixing too much cold water
You may have an anti-scald feature on your faucet that is mixing cold water.
These types of faucets can usually be adjusted to reduce the amount of
cold water mixed. Also, your tank may be completely out of hot water and is
mixing cold water. Give the tank time to recover or reduce the amount of
water you are using.
The water temperature at my
faucet is less than the
temperature setting of my water
heater.
Voltage less than 240 volts.
The computer chips in your unit are programmed with the expectation that
your incoming line voltage is 240 volts. If you have less than 240 volts, it may
affect the reading on your unit’s digital display and cause it to read slightly
higher than the actual output temperature. To compensate for this, increase
the setting on your unit if you need / want hotter water.
Anti-Scald
pressure/balancing valve
or tempering valve.
Your faucet may have an anti-scald feature or a tempering valve that
automatically mixes cold water even when you turn your control lever or
handle to full hot. These devices are usually adjustable so you can turn off the
cold mix completely. You can compensate for this by increasing the setting on
your unit if you need/want hotter water.
Thermal loss due to long pipe
run
As the hot water from the unit runs through the hot water delivery system
to your faucet, some heat will be lost especially if it has long distance to travel
or the pipes are cold. This is normal. You can compensate for this by
increasing the setting on your unit if you need/want hotter water.
Pre-existing water tank is not
heating.
Incorrect wiring.
The unit may be wired incorrectly. Refer to page 13 for proper wiring layout.
Relay switch is defective.
Please call us for technical assistance.
Unit displays 999 as inlet and/or
outlet temperature
Thermistor on corresponding
channel is defective
Please call us for technical assistance
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Summary of Contents for AUTOBOOSTER
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