32
11.2 Table of setting the machine according to the sewing category
Commercial designation of the machine
4220 - 6XX - X
1) The standard setting of the machine for the categories 3 and 4 concerns a decorative stitching, when it is difficult to match
a good stitch interlocking with a faultless function of the thread trimming device. Otherwise, when sewing material of
considerable overall thickness, it will be necessary to increase the overtopping of the teeth above the needle plate and to
increase also the needle thread tension.
2) The thickness of a layer is measured using an engineer slide calliper with the pressure of jaws of about 10 N.
3) One set of dish-shaped springs is mounted, another one is enclosed.
4) The values of tension are only orientative ones and it is necessary to adapt especially the tension of the shuttle thread
according to the stiffness of the material. An excessive tension of the threads when sewing soft materials causes material
wrinkling.
5) When performing decorative stitching of the category 4, the shuttle thread having the label No 20 is used.
6) When changing markedly the sewing category together with changing the tension of the shuttle thread, it is necessary to
modify the tension of the retaining spring of the trimming device according to the paragraph 4.7.
7) When changing markedly the sewing category together with a marked change of the needle number, it is necessary to correct
the setting of the distance of the shuttle from the needle, according to the paragraph 3.1.3 and, at the same time, the setting
of the fixed trimming knife of the trimming device, according to the par. 4.6.
8) There are in use various types of feeders with the purpose of avoiding imprinting the teeth in the lining leather. Otherwise, it
is possible to use any feeder.
11.3 Table of possible stitch widths of needles according to the sewing category
Standard machine setting
1)
Needle
Sewing Diameter Feeder Presser Presser
Threads
Thread Spring Dishs
size
speed
o f
-
t o p
t o p
tension
limiter of main
o f
needle
pitch
roller
roller
4)
tensio- tensio-
plate
of teeth diameter position needle
h o o k
n e r
ners
insert
thread thread
7)
hole
8)
6)
3)
0,01 mm
S P M
m m
m m
m m
m m
N
N
80
2500
1,3
1,0
35
10,5
3
1
L
90
2000
1,6
1,0
35
10,5
4,5
1,5
M
130
1200
2,2
1,5
35
10,5
5 - 8
2
M - H
180
800
2,5
1,5
35
10,5
10- 12
2 - 2,5
H
0099 004800
Setting as per
Instructions for service
3.3.1
3.6.2.8
3.7.9.1
3.7.9.2
3.5.5
chapter
Instruction manual
6.5
6.4
6.4
Instruction for assembling
2.4
4.5
Sewing
Distance of seams (stitch width)
Maximum
category
1,2
1,6
2
2,4
3,2
stitch length
mm
mm
3
3
5
5
5
7
7
7
7
7
7
- 100
Light
- 200
Medium
- 300
Medium heavy
-duty
- 400
Heavy - duty
(decorative)
Standard sewing parameters
Seam Thick- Number Stitch Label
dis-
ness
o f
length n u m -
tance of one material
ber of
material layers
thread
layer
PES
2)
m m
m m
m m
1,2
0,8
2
2
70
1,6
1
2
3
40
2
1,5
1-2
5
20
2,4
2
1-2
5
10/20
5)
-100
-200
-300
-400
S080 828102 0467 110220
Sewing category
