12
Installing and hooking up your HVAD Controller:
To help prevent over-voltage, always hookup the controller to the batteries (and power it up) before enabling
your turbine or solar energy sources. The controller cannot engage its protective circuits if there is no
connection to the battery bank.
A free spinning turbine can instantly generate very high voltages, which can damage many of the components
within the controller if the controller is not first powered up.
Inspect the unit when it first arrives. Please contact your dealer immediately if any problems are found.
Install the HVAD controller indoors only.
The controller should be connected as close to the battery bank
as possible, using large insulated copper wire.
A common installation method is to mount the controller on the wall, often reinforced with plywood or similar
material, in a room specifically built for your alternate energy equipment. A garage or similar room is also fine.
Installations in your living area are not recommended! Large currents and voltages are passed through the unit,
there is a noise emitted during the normal cycling of the solenoid, not to mention that multiple LEDs that will blink
constantly as the unit is operating, which may be less than inviting in your living space.
Do not install the controller in a very small area that does not allow for proper ventilation.
Absolutely do not install
the controller in a “battery box” without substantial ventilation.
Lead acid batteries expel hydrogen to the air as
they charge, which can be ignited by the solenoid during normal operation.
The controller has four holes on the back of the unit that accommodate 12 gauge screws or similar to be used to
securely fasten the unit to the wall. The unit may be installed on a flat horizontal surface; however it may be difficult
to use the front panel buttons and display. When mounting vertically, the inputs of the controller should always be
oriented downwards (with the vent upwards), to ensure the unit is able dissipate any captive heat.
Use large gauge wire to hook up the controller to your battery bank. If you will be using the controller at amperages
above 60 amps, then it is vital that you use only high quality terminal connections crimped, screwed or soldered to the
copper wire, and bolted tightly to the input connections of the controller. (Aluminum wire is not recommended.) Do
not attempt to wrap large wire (larger than 8 gauge) directly around the mounting post of the controller. Significant
heat can result from a poor connection, leading to multitude of failures such as melted insulation, burnt out
components; or worse, a full-fledged fire.
Again, do not install under size wire, it is utterly dangerous! See the NEC wire charts to determine your minimum
safe wire gauge for the amperage of your system and energy sources. Both the negative and positive wire going to
your battery bank must be sized properly and fully capable of handling the combined current of your wind and solar
energy sources. If there is a diversion load, then this amperage must also be factored in. This single wire pair must
carry all of the charge and discharge current of all connected loads and inputs. Note: When the solenoid is enabled,
the solar energy is disabled; however, any diversion load will then be active and possibly drawing power from the
battery.
Any wire that leaves an energy source MUST have a breaker or fuse. Do not run a wire from your battery bank
that is not protected against over current. This means you need a breaker or fuse between the battery bank and
controller. The breakers inside the HVAD do not fulfill this purpose. The left breaker on the inside of the unit fulfils
the purpose of having an over-current protection for your diversion load, therefore no additional breaker is needed
from the controller to the diversion load.
Summary of Contents for C440-HVAD
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