7
QUICK CHART
A separate Chart Quick Sheet, a blue sheet, which is included with every unit, should be followed at this point.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
Cloudy water or algae
If algae is present, you must take steps to solve the reason it formed. First, brush the algae. Add chlorine to the pool to
oxidize. Check filtering system and backwash or clean filter. Check the water chemistry - especially pH and total
alkalinity. Make sure copper-ion level is in range. You may need to oxidize more frequently if problems persist. Contact
your
dealer
or
Clearwater Enviro Tech
for help. If cloudy water is a problem, add chlorine to clear it up. Again, make
sure all chemistry readings are in the proper range, and filter is clean. Usually, cloudy water is from a poor filtering
system. Make sure you oxidize on a timely basis. Never use granular chlorine without dissolving it first or pouring it
directly into the skimmer.
Can't obtain the proper copper-ion level
If you are unable to obtain the proper copper-ion level, check all the following factors to solve the problem:
1.)
High algae growth and cloudy water
may be using up all available copper-ions that the unit can produce. Make sure
pool is balanced and turn the control knob up. Oxidize the water with chlorine.
2.)
Correct sizing of the pool.
The R-20 is designed for pools up to 20,000 gallons, while the R-40 is designed for pools
up to 40,000 gallons. Never undersize a unit, especially in warm water areas.
3.) Make sure the unit is set on the
correct voltage
. A unit set on 220VAC with the power source at 110VAC will cut the
power output in half. A unit set on 110VAC with the power source at 220VAC will blow the internal fuse.
4.)
Scaled, dirty or worn electrodes.
A blue-greenish coating around the electrodes is normal. However a build-up of
scale, dirt or debris around the electrodes can effect the unit from producing ions. Simply unscrew the electrodes and
clean off the build-up using an old toothbrush and lemon juice or a muriatic acid/water solution. Re-apply teflon tape
when screwing the electrodes back in place.
5.)
TDS is too low.
If the TDS of the water is not at least 500, the unit will not work at 100% efficiency. Add salt to bring
the TDS up. See TDS section earlier in this booklet.
6.)
Improper test kit readings.
Make sure you follow the proper copper-ion test kit procedures. Many people look at the
side of the test tubes when testing instead of looking down from the top. Also, be sure to wait 3 minutes for the reagents to
develop. The reagents should be replaced yearly, and kept out of direct sunlight, and stored at normal room temperature.
Never let them freeze or be exposed to extreme heat. This will cause false readings.
7.)
Improper pH readings.
This is usually the main reason for a low copper-ion level. Make sure the pH is maintained
between 7.2-7.8, with the lower end preferred. When the pH goes over 7.8, the copper-ions can fallout of solution. Make
sure your pH test kit is updated with fresh reagents, and is also kept out of direct sunlight and kept in normal room
temperatures.
8.)
Too much chlorine in the pool.
If the pool was just shocked with alot of chlorine, this can give you an improper test
kit reading on the copper test kit. The high chlorine level can "bleach" out the readings and appear to read zero.
9.)
Metal out removers in the water.
As mentioned in the Sequestering Agent Level section in this booklet, there are a
few metal out removers or stain removers that can "tie-up" the copper"ion levels. If a metal out remover has been used
during the past year or so, this will cause problems. You will need to supershock the pool with alot of chlorine to ''burn'' it
all out.
