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18

THERMAL SOARING

It takes a lot of concentration to thermal soar effectively. A 
sailplane can fly along the edge of a thermal and unless the 
pilot is carefully watching the model he may not realize the 
opportunity  to  gain  some  altitude.  Because  most  thermals 
are relatively small, a couple hundred feet [60m] or less at 
400' [121.9 m] altitude) compared to the rest of the sky, the 
sailplane  will  rarely  fly  directly  into  the  thermal  and  start 
rising. Generally, the sailplane will fly into the edge or near a 
thermal and the effects the thermal has on the plane may be 
almost unnoticeable. As the sailplane approaches a thermal, 
the wing tip that reaches the rising air first will be lifted before 
the opposite wing tip. This causes the sailplane to “bank” and 
turn away from where we would like the sailplane to go.

When  you  are  thermal  soaring,  try  to  fly  as  smooth  and 
straight as possible. Trim the sailplane to fly in a straight line 
and  only  touch  the  controls  when  you  have  to. Watch  the 
sailplane carefully and it will tell you what it is encountering. 

When the sailplane flies directly into a thermal it will either 
start rising or stop sinking. Either case is reason enough to 
start  circling,  especially  in  a  contest  where  every  second 
counts. Fly straight ahead until you feel like you are in the 
strongest lift, 

fly a couple of seconds farther, so that your 

circle  will  be  centered  in  the  strongest  lift,  and  then  start 
circling in a fairly tight but smooth turn. When the sailplane is 
low the turns have to be tighter to stay in the strongest lift. As 
the plane gains altitude, the turns can be larger and flatter. 
The flatter the turn, the more efficient the plane is flying. If 
you  see  the  sailplane  falling  off  on  one  side  of  the  circle, 
move your circle over into the stronger lift. Thermals move 
along with the wind so as you circle you will be swept along 
with it. Be careful when thermaling, that you don’t get so far 
downwind you can’t make it back to the field to land. 

If  the  sailplane  is  flying  along  straight  and  all  of  a  sudden 
turns, let the plane continue to bank. You may have to add 
some  rudder  to  keep  it  banked.  Continue  turning  until  the 
sailplane  has  completed  a  270  degree  turn,  ¾  of  a  circle. 
Straighten  out  the  bank  and  fly  into  whatever  turned  the 
plane. If you encounter lift, and you won’t every time, start 
circling just as you did when flying directly into a thermal. 

Thermals  are  generated  all  day  long,  but  the  strongest 
thermals  are  produced  when  the  sun  is  directly  overhead. 
Some of these thermals can be very large and you may find 
it hard to get out of them. If you find your sailplane getting too 
high, don’t dive the plane to get out of the lift. Sailplanes are 
very efficient aircraft and they will build up a lot of speed and 
could come apart in the rough air of a thermal. The easiest 
way to lose altitude is to apply full rudder and full up elevator. 
This will put the sailplane into a tight spin that will not over 
stress the airframe but it will enable it to lose altitude very 
quickly. This is especially helpful if the sailplane gets sucked 
into a cloud or it gets too high to see. The twirling action will 
give the sun a better chance of flashing off of the wing and 
catching your attention. 

In  a  gentle  thermal,  when  you  are  high  enough  and  want 
to leave the thermal, add a little down trim to pick up speed 
and fly 90 degrees to the direction of the wind. If you are not 
real  high  and  want  to  find  another  thermal,  you  may  want 
to  look  upwind  of  the  last  thermal. The  same  source  that 
generated  the  first  thermal  is  probably  producing  another. 
Just  watch  out  for  “sink”  which  is  often  found  behind  and 
between thermals. 

As you might expect, with all this air rising, there is also air 
sinking. This  air  is  the  sailplane  pilot’s  nightmare  that  can 
really  make  soaring  challenging.  Sinking  air  is  usually  not 
as strong as the thermal in the same area, but can be very 
strong. Down drafts of many hundreds of feet (meters) per 
minute  are  common  on  a  good  soaring  day.  These  down 
drafts can make a sailplane look like it is falling out of the 
air.  Because  of  this,  it  is  important  that  you  do  not  let  the 
sailplane get too far downwind.

When encountering sink, immediately turn and fly 90 degrees 
to the direction of the wind. Apply a little “down elevator” and 
pick up some speed to get out of the sink as fast as possible. 
Every second you stay in the sink is precious altitude lost. 

pOINTERS FOR CONTEST FLYING

Pay Attention: Pay close attention to the sailplanes flying 
before  you,  watch  them  and  try  to  establish  where  and 
when the thermals are being formed. The thermals are often 
formed in cycles and are fairly regular, so if you keep track 
of the time intervals you will have a good idea of when and 
where a thermal may be generated. 

Watch The Birds: Thermals suck up small insects that many 
birds love to eat. A bunch of swallows flying around in one 
area may indicate a thermal. Soaring birds such as hawks, 
vultures and eagles are the best thermal indicators. They not 
only show you where the thermal is but they also show you 
where the center is. These “Masters of the sky” will often fly 
right along with the sailplanes.

Practice Those Landings: Most thermal contests are won 
or  lost  during  the  landing.  Establish  a  particular  landing 
pattern  and  try  to  stick  to  it  for  all  landings.  Learn  to  shift 
your pattern to account for the wind and particular fly field 
characteristics. 

Concentrate: Keep your eye on your sailplane during your 
contest flights. Have a helper or your counter watch the other 
sailplanes in the air. Sometimes your sailplane will wiggle so 
quickly or gently that you may miss it if you are not paying 
close attention. If you find a productive thermal, don’t leave it 
because your helper tells you that someone else has found 
a different one. 

Summary of Contents for SOPHISTICATED LADY

Page 1: ... act of using the user assembled product the user accepts all resulting liability If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase To make a warranty claim Hobby Services send the defective part 3002 N Apollo Dr Suite 1 or item to Hobby Services Champ...

Page 2: ...ies required to finish the Sophisticated Lady ARF Order numbers are provided in parentheses 1 4 Foam Rubber GPMQ1000 64 Rubber Bands HCAQ2020 ADHESIVES AND BUILDING SUPPLIES In addition to common household and hobby tools this is the short list of the most important items required to assemble the Sophisticated Lady ARF Great Planes Pro CA glue is recommended Thin CA 1 2 oz 15g Thin Pro CA GPMR6001...

Page 3: ...aterial from the joiner to allow the panels to fit together Gather everything required for gluing the wing joiner and wing together including 30 minute epoxy mixing sticks epoxy brush 12 304mm long dowel or wire denatured alcohol and paper towels Mix up 1 2 oz 14 8cc of 30 minute epoxy Working quickly pour a generous amount into the joiner pocket of one wing half Use your wire or dowel to thorough...

Page 4: ...ge Wipe off the excess epoxy with a paper towel dampened with rubbing alcohol Use masking tape to hold the fin in position aligned with the centerline of the fuselage and parallel to the sides Drill a 3 32 Hole 1 2 Deep in the Center of the Hinge Slot 5 Drill a 3 32 2 4mm hole 1 2 13mm deep in the center of the fin and rudder hinge slots If you use a Dremel Rotary Tool for this task it will result...

Page 5: ...E STABILIZER 1 Draw a centerline on the bottom of the stabilizer Draw a line 3 32 2 4mm on each side of the centerline Use a hobby knife to cut and remove the covering only between the two outside lines DO NOT cut the wood under the covering as this will weaken the stabilizer causing it to fail 2 Use 6 minute epoxy to glue the stabilizer to the top of the fin Use a square to check that the stabili...

Page 6: ...arden the holes by applying two or three drops of thin CA in each hole After the CA has cured attach the control horn to the rudder using two 2 56 x 3 8 9 5mm screws and the control horn back plate 3 Use a 44 or 3 32 2 4mm drill bit to enlarge the outer hole in the second nylon control horn 4 Insert the quick connector through the previously drilled hole in the control horn Install a 2mm washer on...

Page 7: ...eiver and receiver battery in 1 4 6 4mm thick foam Position the receiver and receiver battery in the fuselage as shown Remove the receiver switch cover from the receiver switch Position the switch cover on the outside of the fuselage between the receiver and receiver battery Mark the two mounting screw holes and the switch opening on the fuselage Use a sharp hobby knife to cut out the switch openi...

Page 8: ...wo plywood outer pushrod tube supports over the elevator outer pushrod tube 12 Center the elevator servo Trim a servo arm to fit perpendicular to the elevator servo Remove the other unused servo arms 13 Install a quick connector on the elevator servo arm following the same procedure used to install it on the elevator control horn 14 Install the servo arm on the elevator servo Route the elevator ca...

Page 9: ...se 6 minute epoxy to glue the nylon tail skid on the aft bottom of the fuselage 2 Remove the covering from over the wing dowel holes Center the wing dowels in the fuselage Use thin CA to glue them in position Canopy Installation 1 Use thin CA to glue the small hardwood dowel into the front canopy brace so that it protrudes out approximately 3 8 9 5mm 2 Place a piece of wax paper in the cockpit ope...

Page 10: ...l 5 Using a needle nose pliers open the eyelet slightly so that a rubberband can be installed on the eyelet Thread each eyelet into the round plywood doubler until it just starts to come out the back 6 Use medium CA to glue one of the eyelets to the bottom of the fuselage between the receiver and receiver battery Glue the second eyelet on the bottom of the cockpit aligned with the eyelet in the fu...

Page 11: ...After the first flights the tow hook can be moved back to the center hole for most flying conditions For contest flying you may want to try the rear hole as it can help achieve a higher launch but be careful as the sailplane will be more aft to pop off the line Apply the Decals 1 Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the decals from the sheet 2 Be certain the model is clean and free from oily...

Page 12: ...rows specified in this manual The throws have been determined through actual flight testing and accurate record keeping allowing the model to perform in the manner in which it was intended If after you have become accustomed to the way the Sophisticated Lady flies you would like to change the throws to suit your taste that is fine However too much control throw could make the model too responsive ...

Page 13: ...your first flight will be successful If you value your model and wish to enjoy it for many flights DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT PROCEDURE A model that is not properly balanced may be unstable and possibly unflyable At this stage the model should be in ready to fly condition with all of the components in place including the complete radio system 1 If using a Great Planes C G Machine set the ruler...

Page 14: ...e a poor wing design fly better by adding some stability preventing stalls at slow speeds but it cuts down on the wing s efficiency at normal speeds The Sophisticated Lady ARF s wing is designed to fly well at slow speeds without any washout and therefore we recommend you check to make sure the wings are flat using the following procedure Set the wing so an inner panel is resting on a flat surface...

Page 15: ...lephone number on or inside your model CAUTION Unless the instructions that came with your radio system state differently the initial charge on new transmitter and receiver batteries should be done for 15 hours using the slow charger that came with the radio system This will condition the batteries so that the next charge may be done using the fast charger of your choice If the initial charge is d...

Page 16: ...rface to fail thus causing loss of control followed by an impending crash The best thing to do when flutter is detected is to slow the model immediately then land as soon as safely possible Identify which surface fluttered so the problem may be resolved by checking all the servo grommets for deterioration or signs of vibration Make certain all pushrod linkages are secure and free of play If it flu...

Page 17: ...he plane upwind and just perform some gentle S turns always turning into the wind until it is time to set up for landing Have a helper adjust the trims on your transmitter a little at a time until the plane will fly straight and level with the transmitter sticks in their neutral positions When it is time to land just continue performing the gentle S turns upwind and let the plane glide onto the gr...

Page 18: ...f a thermal The easiest way to lose altitude is to apply full rudder and full up elevator This will put the sailplane into a tight spin that will not over stress the airframe but it will enable it to lose altitude very quickly This is especially helpful if the sailplane gets sucked into a cloud or it gets too high to see The twirling action will give the sun a better chance of flashing off of the ...

Page 19: ...g wind conditions you may want to add ballast weight to the sailplane to increase its wing loading which increases its normal flying speed Increasing the weight of your sailplane does not change its glide ratio but it does make it fly faster Because of the faster sink rate you need to be very cautious when ballasting for a thermal contest In duration type contests only use ballast on very windy da...

Page 20: ... Copyright 2009 GBGA1059 Mnl www carlgoldbergproducts com ...

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