Clutch Dismantling
Before dismantling the clutch the primary chain case cover must be removed as
described under “Front Chain” on page 17. The clutch springs must be compressed
by pressing on the outer plate until the circlip retaining the spring pressure plate can
be removed. Care must be taken to see that the springs are properly compressed as
damage may result if they are released suddenly and the job is best accomplished
with the aid of special clutch spring compressing tool 61-3191. When the spring
pressure plate is removed the three cork and two plain clutch plates can be
withdrawn. If the cork inserts are burnt the plates should be replaced. Re-assembly
is carried out in the reverse order.
Gearbox
The gearbox, although built in unit construction with the engine, is self-contained as
regards lubrication. Engine oil is used for lubricating the gears and primary drive and
the correct level is determined by a dipstick incorporated in the gearbox filler plug.
(A)
,
Fig. 8.
When topping up the gearbox pour engine oil in until it just reaches the bottom
of the dipstick attached to the plug when the latter is placed in position, so that when
it is screwed down the oil level will reach the graduation.
To change the oil in the gearbox, remove drain plug (E) Fig. 7 at bottom of
gearbox and drain out old oil. Wash out the gearbox with flushing oil and refill with
new oil through filler hole (A), to level of dipstick.
WHEELS
Hub Lubrication
Inject grease through the nipples in the centres of the hubs. Do not over lubricate, or
grease may be forced onto the brake linings and cause ineffective brakes. Three or
four strokes of the grease gun should be ample. D
O NOT LUBRICATE WITH OIL.
Hubs
These are fitted with ball journal bearings, and no adjustment is either provided or
required. So long as they are adequately lubricated as described above they will give
faultless service throughout the lifetime of the machine.
Front Wheel Removal
The brake cable must be uncoupled at the lever on the brake cover plate. Take off
two spindle nuts. Then undo the three mudguard stay bolts on the other side (i.e., the
nearside) and lift up the nearside fork leg enabling the wheel to drop out at an angle.
This procedure is necessary because of the fork anchor plate on the cover plate.
Replacement is carried out in the reverse order.
Rear Wheel Removal
Disconnect the speedometer cable from the speedometer gearbox and remove the
knurled adjusting nut from the rear brake lever. The rear chain should be
disconnected at its spring link and unwound from the rear wheel sprocket. It is
advisable to leave the chain in position on the gearbox sprocket. It will also be
necessary to uncouple the brake plate arm from the swinging fork. Finally, slacken
the spindle nuts sufficiently to allow the wheel to be withdrawn. During reassembly
make sure that the slot in the brake plate extension engages on the locating peg on the
fork end and that the chain adjusters are up against the ends of the lugs.
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