background image

BE2c

 

36

 

7/8”

    

Page

 

 

2

 
 

 

Copyright©

 

2007

11

    

M.K.

 

Bengtson

  

All

 

Rights

 

Reserved

   

Rev

 

07/11

 

Tail

 

Planes

 

Vertical

 

Fin

 

and

 

Rudder

 

 

Remove

 

parts

 

S1

 

 

S9

 

from

 

the

 

1/8”

 

sheet.

 

You

 

will

 

also

 

need

 

some

 

1/16”x1/8”

 

balsa

 

from

 

your

 

stick

 

stock.

 

After

 

covering

 

the

 

plans

 

with

 

your

 

chosen

 

protector

 

lay

 

the

 

parts

 

over

 

the

 

plans.

 

When

 

you

 

are

 

happy

 

with

 

how

 

the

 

fin

 

and

 

rudder

 

are

 

to

 

be

 

constructed,

 

start

 

by

 

pinning

 

the

 

two

 

vertical

 

pieces

 

(S3

 

and

 

S4)

  

to

 

the

 

board,

 

then

 

work

 

around

 

the

 

rudder

 

gluing

 

and

 

pinning

 

each

 

piece

 

to

 

complete

 

the

 

outside

 

of

 

the

 

frame.

 

Fill

 

in

 

the

 

three

 

1/16”x1/8”

 

pieces

 

and

 

S11

 

to

 

complete

 

the

 

rudder.

 

Finish

 

off

 

the

 

vertical

 

fin

 

by

 

gluing

 

S1

 

and

 

S2

 

to

 

S3

 

and

 

add

 

the

 

two

 

1/16”x1/8”

 

ribs.

 

Make

 

sure

 

everything

 

stays

 

flat.

 

Allow

 

whatever

 

glue

 

you

 

are

 

using

 

to

 

completely

 

cure

 

and

 

harden

 

before

 

removing

 

the

 

completed

 

parts

 

from

 

the

 

plans.

 

Don’t

 

attach

 

the

 

ply

 

control

 

horn

 

until

 

after

 

covering.

 

Horizontal

 

Stab.

 

and

 

Elevator

 

H5

 

&

 

H2

 

are

 

long

 

and

 

somewhat

 

fragile,

 

use

 

care

 

when

 

removing

 

them

 

from

 

their

 

sheets

 

and

 

with

 

the

 

lightest

 

of

 

sanding

 

remove

 

any

 

remnants

 

of

 

the

 

laser

 

cut

 

‘tags’.

 

Using

 

a

 

straight

 

edge

 

to

 

keep

 

it

 

dead

 

straight,

 

pin

 

H5

 

to

 

the

 

plans

 

in

 

position.

 

Glue

 

and

 

pin

 

H1,

 

then

 

with

 

another

 

straight

 

edge,

 

similarly

 

glue

 

and

 

locate

 

H2

 

to

 

H1.

 

Add

 

the

 

two

 

H4

 

side

 

pieces

 

and

 

H3’s

 

to

 

the

 

corners.

 

Cut

 

and

 

fit

 

the

 

1/8”x1/16”

 

ribs.

 

Tip:

 

Cut

 

the

 

first

 

rib,

 

sand

 

and

 

fit

 

neatly

 

to

 

the

 

horizontal

 

stabiliser.

 

Cut

 

all

 

the

 

rest

 

from

 

this

 

pattern

 

making

 

them

 

ever

 

so

 

slightly

 

oversize.

 

A

 

couple

 

of

 

strokes

 

on

 

sandpaper

 

will

 

be

 

sufficient

 

to

 

tune

 

these

 

to

 

length

 

as

 

you

 

fit

 

them.

 

Do

 

not

 

distort

 

the

 

structure

 

by

 

trying

 

to

 

squeeze

 

in

 

a

 

rib

 

that

 

is

 

just

 

too

 

long,

 

a

 

couple

 

more

 

strokes

 

on

 

the

 

sandpaper

 

and

 

it’ll

 

be

 

perfect.

 

If

 

you

 

over

sand

 

any

 

and

 

it’s

 

too

 

loose

 

a

 

fit,

 

put

 

it

 

aside

 

and

 

cut

 

another.

 

The

 

short

 

one

 

can

 

be

 

used

 

for

 

an

 

elevator

 

rib.

 

 

Horizontal

 

stab.

 

start

 

and

 

complete.

 

When

 

all

 

the

 

ribs

 

are

 

glued

 

into

 

the

 

horizontal

 

stabiliser

 

remove

 

the

 

straight

 

edge

 

against

 

H5.

 

Elevators.

 

Pin

 

the

 

two

 

E1

 

to

 

the

 

plans,

 

some

 

thin

 

spacer

 

material

 

between

 

H5

 

and

 

the

 

two

 

E1

 

will

 

make

 

this

 

easy.

 

Work

 

around

 

the

 

outside

 

on

 

the

 

elevators

 

to

 

complete

 

the

 

outline.

 

Add

 

the

 

ribs

 

and

 

the

 

two

 

control

 

horn

 

anchors

 

to

 

complete

 

this

 

section.

 

Do

 

not

 

add

 

the

 

control

 

horns

 

themselves

 

until

 

after

 

covering.

 

Wings

 

The

 

wings

 

can

 

be

 

built

 

with

 

or

 

without

 

the

 

optional

 

under

 

camber

 

which

 

is

 

laser

 

cut

 

into

 

the

 

ribs.

 

It

 

is

 

no

 

more

 

difficult

 

to

 

have

 

this

 

option

 

really,

 

the

 

ribs

 

still

 

sit

 

nicely

 

flat

 

on

 

the

 

building

 

surface

 

even

 

after

 

removing

 

the

 

extra

 

material.

 

Under

 

camber

 

does

 

require

 

a

 

little

 

more

 

attention

 

to

 

the

 

aileron

 

servo

 

hatch

 

area

 

and

 

you’ll

 

need

 

to

 

check

 

your

 

servo’s

 

are

 

thin

 

enough

 

in

 

the

 

narrowed

 

wing.

 

If

 

you

 

do

 

want

 

under

 

camber,

 

the

 

laser

 

cut

 

lines

 

are

 

easy

 

to

 

finish

 

with

 

a

 

sharp

 

#11

 

knife

 

blade

 

and

 

a

 

touch

 

of

 

sandpaper

 

to

 

remove

 

the

 

‘bumps’.

 

Don’t

 

over

 

sand.

 

Finish

 

each

 

rib’s

 

lower

 

surface

 

as

 

you

 

remove

 

it

 

from

 

it’s

 

sheet

 

and

 

you

 

won’t

 

even

 

have

 

to

 

sand

 

the

 

under

 

camber

 

on

 

the

 

completed

 

wing.

 

Other

 

than

 

a

 

little

 

more

 

preparation

 

of

 

each

 

rib,

 

and

 

servo

 

rail

 

fitting,

 

wing

 

assembly

 

is

 

the

 

same

 

with

 

or

 

without

 

under

 

camber.

 

Also

 

note

 

with

 

under

 

camber,

 

the

 

ply

 

‘P’

 

pieces

 

that

 

make

 

the

 

carbane

 

strut

 

sockets

 

will

 

need

 

some

 

more

 

attention

 

on

 

the

 

under

 

surface

 

of

 

the

 

upper

 

wing

 

before

 

covering.

 

Summary of Contents for BE2C

Page 1: ...ights Reserved Rev 07 11 BE2C 36 7 8 1 12th Scale R C Scale Model Instructions CONTACT INFORMATION Designed by M K Bengtson Prototype by John O Duffy Manufactured and Distributed by Bengtson Company e...

Page 2: ...uilders like CA glues which certainly speeds construction in general but ensure your work area is well ventilated as many people have adverse reactions to the poisonous fumes Epoxy glue should be used...

Page 3: ...to length as you fit them Do not distort the structure by trying to squeeze in a rib that is just too long a couple more strokes on the sandpaper and it ll be perfect If you over sand any and it s to...

Page 4: ...es Cut to length the x leading edge from your stick stock Carefully removing sanding off one point of the square section for its length as indicated by the plans test and then fit the leading edge to...

Page 5: ...s Also if you are recessing the cover add another piece of 1 8 balsa to the front servo rail flush with the wing ribs to finish the box and attach the covering material to The servo is attached to the...

Page 6: ...lacing holes to the rear Using epoxy attach the two fuse sides with F2 and F6 between to F1D and then the cross braces to the top Take time at this stage and use straight edges and squares to ensure e...

Page 7: ...balsa this is a fairly simple curve to start with Use card to create a pattern you ll find balsa bends away from the wet side balsa expands as it soaks and shrinks back as it dries Be prepared to have...

Page 8: ...the bottom surface of the tail section are a flat plane allowing both to be flat to the building surface during construction Use straight edges or blocks fixed to the plans either side of the forward...

Page 9: ...pes is to start with card cut a rectangle bigger than you need Lay over the fuse and mark the length you need to have crossways to get the lowest points of the cut outs in the correct position on the...

Page 10: ...bs as required to ensure the wheel spins straight To form the tyres massage one side of the neoprene so it starts to curl continue and it will form a circle near enough anyway Use CA to glue the ends...

Page 11: ...o level things up Check the distance between some fixed point on each wing say the root end of the aileron space or where the last wing tip rib meets TE and the point of the aft end of the fuse This s...

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